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So, next step will be to try to get that up - to about 1.4 bar? Next silly question (and without looking it up in RAVE): as the Td5 has a boost pressure modulator, won't the ECU still limit maximum boost despite my best efforts at shortening the wastegate linkage?
Regards Philip A
Attachment 144804Attachment 144805
Geez am good to you
The little lock on top has to be as pictured so that the top flap can open which pushes down the clamp under the roof bars.
If the two holes are oriented across the car , you can see that the tab will be under the surface of the hole below and therefore locked. Mine are pretty stiff so a bit of WD40 may help. to unlock turn anti clockwise.
Regards Philip A
Thanks for the tips on the roof bars, Philip, and for your succinct summary on boost adjustment. If you could just clarify the middle part of "No" please... [wink11]
So, this arvo I go to shorten said wastegate rod. crack the lock nut loose and as far as I can see, with the heatshield still in place, it looks like the yolk with the flat sides stays still while the "factory trained technician" (or closest thing thereto) turns the knurled nut on the threaded rod to shorten the link. Does this sound right?
'Cos my knurled nut doesn't want to move despite copious amounts of WD40 and Loctite Freeze & Release. (Is this turbo going to stink next time I run it...)
Now I said "with the heatshield still in place" as it appears a helpful PO has rounded-off the heat shield bolt on the firewall side. Any hints on how to get this out without pulling the engine out?
Maybe the easiest way to drop EGTs would be to leave the boost alone and put the factory map back into the ECU. Gees I hate it when simple jobs turn into total PITAs.
I am trying to remember but you may have to use brute force.
You have to hold the shaft still or you will pop off the circlip on the wastegate.
I hold my rod with multigrips while I turn the nut. I haven't touched mine for a long time 2+ years ? so I cannot remember exactly what I did
Re the heat shield.
I modified mine by putting nutserts in which made it much easier to remove and replace.
Regards Philip A
Anyone else with clues on how to get the heat shield off with a rounded-off bolt? Just butcher it with tin snips and buy a new one?
try a 3/8" socket ( you will have to tap it on with a hammer) if that doesn't work , you will get vice grips on from underneath.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo109
Kingchrome "Lok-On" sockets. work as stated too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo109
I tried to remove an already rounded bolt on my D1's fan pulley(maybe the pwr steer pump) but while I was doing them all, and one bolt was already rounded. nothing I had was getting this one bolt off, so I went looking to see if any stores near me had those sockets with the plunger pins that shape themselves around a rounded head.
None did, but whilst at Bursons, the chap offered me a deal I couldn't refuse.
He said try these Lok-On Kingschromes, if it don't work bring the set back, $'s back.
I only live 1min walk from the Bursons, so took him up on the offer. Needless to say the socket worked perfectly .. more so to my surprise.
I got the 3/8 drive metric only socket set, which is one of my primary tool kits now. [thumbsupbig]
You can drill or grind of the rivets on the heat shield to bracket and just re rivet it back on.
“I hold my rod with multigrips while I turn the nut.” Brought tears to my eyes just thinking about it - what some landy-mechs do to improve their rides! Also I can understand why it hasn’t been touched for 2+ years as a consequence!
Yes sounds painful, but he will thank me when he saves the circlip from pinging off never to be seen again. Ask me how I know. And the bloody circlip is some unobtainable size.Quote:
I hold my rod with multigrips while I turn the nut.
Regards Philip A