TD5 Vibration... (yes I know there is a 409 post thread on this)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rover-56

You did well getting the camera down in there.
Don't know how to compare gen and non gen engine mounts, when I replaced mine the old ones looked a lot like the new, but a bit lower.
I think you would have to take them out, and the LH one is a bit hard to do.
Replacing the injector seals makes sense, anything that makes the engine run less evenly, like injector problems would make it harder for the engine mounts to absorb the vibration.
Replacing my eng. mounts certainly reduced that vibration at 2150 to a level I could tolerate.
Problem is that it is at 100kmh in auto lockup.
"I have to do 110 officer, because the car doesn't like the speed limit" [bigrolf][bigrolf]
Cheers,
Terry

---

I got the camera through the wheel arch on a couple of those pics. Genuine engine mounts are pretty expensive so the nolathane is just to reduce vib through the chassis further, my old man has used it for a few similar applications and had good results (he’s a diesel mechanic), it was his suggestion. Maybe it could help my mounts which seem to be ok though possibly not genuine. I might just try this first to see if there’s a reduction in vib, it should be a cheap and easy option.

Will do injector seals regardless as it may help and I can’t see them done in the service history. I have no other fuel issues other than fuel pump sounds like it is pumping for around 10-15sec, i’m under the impression it should only last for about 3sec

110 in a 100 sounds perfectly reasonable to me sir! [emoji38] i’m lucky, most of the hwy’s near me are 110. Having said that 90km hr returns good economy

I’m going to take out the front driveshaft today and drive it to see what happens just to ease my mind, as there is a reduction in vib when stationary.

Your photos are very nice, but miss the point.
To check the engine mounts you look into the hole in the bottom.

If there is clearance of say 5MM or so they are OK, but if the rubber is hard up against the hole ie the steel outer then they are cactus.
Regards Philip A

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Your photos are very nice, but miss the point.
To check the engine mounts you look into the hole in the bottom.

If there is clearance of say 5MM or so they are OK, but if the rubber is hard up against the hole ie the steel outer then they are cactus.
Regards Philip A

---

Champ! Thanks mate, I will have a look

So there is more than 5 mm gap on the bottom of the mounts. Might not be genuine though. Will order injector seals and see if i can find some nolathane shims to see if that works. Will also see if taking the front driveshaft off helps even if just to give me peace of mind to take it off the list.

Will post back if any of these work and also if they don’t

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jezzarezza

So there is more than 5 mm gap on the bottom of the mounts. Might not be genuine though. Will order injector seals and see if i can find some nolathane shims to see if that works. Will also see if taking the front driveshaft off helps even if just to give me peace of mind to take it off the list.

Will post back if any of these work and also if they don’t

---

I wouldn't worry about the engine mounts and front(or rear) drive shafts yet.
Drive shafts could be 'contributing' to an effect, but for now not very likely.

Even if engine mounts are non genuine, as long as they have the gap, then they're doing their job.

While you have a bit of 'spare time' other thing to check is the plug at the ECU for any oil contamination.
If you don't know the history of the injector harness(ie. you don't know if it's been changed), and you do go ahead with the injector seals, then it would make most sense to just do the injector loom at the same time too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AK83

I wouldn't worry about the engine mounts and front(or rear) drive shafts yet.
Drive shafts could be 'contributing' to an effect, but for now not very likely.

Even if engine mounts are non genuine, as long as they have the gap, then they're doing their job.

While you have a bit of 'spare time' other thing to check is the plug at the ECU for any oil contamination.
If you don't know the history of the injector harness(ie. you don't know if it's been changed), and you do go ahead with the injector seals, then it would make most sense to just do the injector loom at the same time too.

---

Thanks mate, yeah, I had some oil in the ECU plug, but thought I cleaned it all out. I don't have any codes anymore. I did buy a harness at the time but haven't fitted it yet. Will do as suggested when I do injector seals.

BTW do have a good place to get seals from? Have been looking online and noticed there is a big gap in price for genuine (no surprise), are the bearmarch ones ok? any other brands?

chees

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jezzarezza

.....

BTW do have a good place to get seals from? Have been looking online and noticed there is a big gap in price for genuine (no surprise), are the bearmarch ones ok? any other brands?

chees

---

For seals, I'd contact Mario(Roverlord here and on ebay).

My brother got his seals, without 'asking' .. and he's a tight@$$, so of course he got a $35 set off ebay.
So far no probs, been running good now for about 5 or more K klms or about 10 months or so, can't remember exactly but about that long.

All the people in the know on here say just get the good stuff from reputable folks .. ie. on here Roverlord!

I think the difference is only about $15 or so ... so not worth going to the effort and finding out in 12 months or 10K that the seals fix the issue only for it to rear it's head again.
Needless to say brother then got a proper set from a reputable source($55) just in case.

With the front shaft, which I think should be OK(but 'ya never know) .. just get under the car, and push/pull/twist/yank! on it .. and if any thing about it is slightly off, you'll feel it.

eg. when we checked brothers, his driveshaft was fine, but he had about 5mm of play in the front flange bearing(at the transfer case), so we got mechanic to do that.
At the same time, I was rebuilding a spare driveshaft, just to be 101% sure .. and it kind'a made a small difference, but it was obviously not the problem(ie. neither front bearing on T/Case, nor driveshaft).

cheers, I figured as much. worth an ask tho

Sorry should’ve also said thanks for drive shaft info.

Thanks again mate

Update: new injector seals = no fix yet for me. New engine & trans mounts to go in soon. See how that goes

I forgot to take the injector numbers/codes down when doing seals. So will take the rocker cover off to note them and check if they are right.

I did one at a time, so I know I didn’t bugger the order up but maybe previous owner did..

Having a bit of trouble finding out what they should be. Should nanocom say what they are supposed to be?