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						Master
					
					
						SubscriberA couple of months ago my alternator decided to kark it. Here's a bit of a blurb about changing it without removing the fan for whatever reason. Someone (local dealer) had locktited mine. I'll worry about that when I really need to. You may be leaving the fan in place for a variety of other reasons.
Mine's a 10P without the EGR cooler but my EGR is in place.
- Remove the ECU. Probably a good idea to unplug it and give the red plug a GOOD clean while it's out.
- Remove the battery tray.
- Remove the intercooler to manifold hose. Give it a clean while it's out if needed.
- Put a bit of cardboard between the fan and intercooler to save it from any damage and to keep at least some knuckle skin.
- Slacken the belt tensioner and get the belt off the alternator pulley.
- Remove the belt tensioner. Check the pulley bearing and if it's a bit sus just replace the whole tensioner.
- Remove the oil feed fittings from the alternator and engine being VERY careful to not lose the copper washers at the alternator end and the o-ring at the engine end.
- Remove the top bracket (both alternator and engine end).
- Get under the car and just cut the oil return hose that runs from the bottom of the vacuum pump to the engine. It's a LOT easier than trying to get the hose clamp undone with fan in situ.
- You should now be able to rotate the alternator away from the inlet manifold which will give you enough room (just) to undo the alternator output terminal.
- Disconnect the vacuum hose.
- Undo the bottom mounting bolt which is a T50 Torx head. The nut rests in a recess and it's good to just leave it there.
- With a bit of wiigling and heaving and shoving you can move the alternator towards the drivers side guard and the a little bit forward.
- At the back of the alternator there is a connector which needs to be disconnected. You should be able to just squeeze it and it'll pull out. Of course you 'won't be able to squeeze it because it'll be full of red dirt and other grunge. Pick as much as you can out with a toothpick and eventually you'll be able to release it.
- Now comes the fun part. Looking from the front, rotate the alternator clockwise and at the same time tilt the front up and you'll get to a point where you can lift it out. If it's in the right position it'll come out without forcing it past anything.
Fitting the alternator is a reversal of the above apart from the fiddling about getting the oil return hose in position. Don't forget to put the hose clamps on the hose before you connect it all up. Lubricating the inside of the hose makes life a lot easier too. Put the hose on the engine end and tighten the hose clamp before you do anything else - it's a lot easier to get to without the alternator there.
Do NOT forget to remove the cardboard behind the fan.
After it's all done and tested roundly curse the bastard that loctited the fan nut and then have a couple of beers, wines, scotches, whatever.
Cheers,
Mark F...
Vk3KW
2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
197? Range Rover - gone
1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
Outback Campers Sturt
http://jandmf.com
Straight to TGO
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
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