TD5 radiator fan upgrade interest

We wonder where the fluid goes too but suffice to say re filling these units usually works. ..well it works for my boy's I should say as I prefer to buy new.

I can only guess over time it goes out the seal and refilling perhaps rejuvenates the seal as the ones done here and for "mates" works cost effectively.

Another trick the boys use is to source a new fan hub that is exactly the same but cheaper because it is fitted to eg a non Nissan car. Like most componants there is much commonality across vehicles and prices for the same componant vary widely. Buying from overseas can also save heaps eg buy direct from Japan - where the importers get their parts.

Lots of options if you have the time to look😎

steering guard should be ok,, there is a factory flat panel that links the bottom of the rad to the sump( though mine seems to have fallen off[bigwhistle])
maybe park a standard front alonside and compare?

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Thats really strange. I've run for about the last 15 years an ECU upgrade, intercooler, additional ATF cooler up front, bullbar, spotties and the only time I've really noticed it getting hot, even with ambient temps over 40 degrees, was when the radiator was just about plugged up with mud and the only indicators were thermo fan running when it was turned off after climbing (indicates 105+ degrees) and the mechanic cracking the ****s with all of the mud through the workshop when he had to clean it out again. :lol2: Like Rangieman I think with most people also, that its more that they've become aware of the temp numbers (and probably think that 100 degrees boils which is not the case) but are not aware that those numbers are what the motor was spec'd to run at, but your 114 is getting right up there and I suspect it might be indicative of something not being right with your setup rather than a design problem.

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I've got a newish OE scotch built radiator (can't recall the brand) which is clean, a new trans cooler, and clean intercooler. In fact up until recently the only item that was not clean was the air con condenser that has now been cleaned with profession grade condenser cleaner a fridgy mate of mine has. I hate mud an avoid it so these item don't get dirt quickly. As mentioned earlier the cooling system components are also not old, eg. water pump, thermostat, hoses etc.

What I have done which may have an inverse effect:
Full length roof rack - TJM contoured alloy
Root Top Tent - Kings fold out
ECU Tune - It maybe running a fraction rich but does not blow any smoke unless cold under full acceleration, and even then it is still way less than a Nissan Navara :)
Boost box fitted running 23 PSI measured at turbo output.
EGT temps max out at about 800-850 if you push it that hard, but often see 700.
V8 torque converter
Snorkel - Ebay special
32" tyres but with 3.9 ratio diffs so probably not an issue as almost equivalent to standard
Spot lights
Roof light bars
Steering guard
Bullbar

It doesn't even get warm until the ambient temp is over 30 degrees. I believe my cooling system may be struggling as the engine is under more load all the time, I run at GVM everyday and have a sail on the roof. I feel i'm running at the higher end of the cooling capacity of the original design. The other issue I have is when 4WDing during summer, a long hill climb with little airflow due to slow speeds gets the temps high, so does beach driving. I unplugged the fog light and plugged the thermo fan instead to overcome this issue before and it has worked OK but not brilliantly.

At the moment driving the disco seems somewhat similar to flying an airplane or submarine, constantly keeping an eye on the gauges to make sure i'm not pushing her too hard. It doesn't take long to learn what driver input effects engine temp, EGT, boost etc. It is actually somewhat satisfying but I'd rather not have to worry about it.

Simple answer is remove to the RTT right or some of the other modifications? Wrong, while that may help it isn't the solution I require, in fact it defeats the whole purpose of owning this vehicle. I'm looking at pulling the EGT's down with an Aillisport intercooler, just waiting on Allisport to manufacture them after their move.

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Originally Posted by Jazzman

Boost box fitted running 23 PSI measured at turbo output.
EGT temps max out at about 800-850 if you push it that hard, but often see 700.

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I thought EGTs over 700 was bad ? 850 ... wow thats hot. I dont have egt readout, so mine may be too high also ... (thats one of many things on my todo list) ...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jazzman

Simple answer is remove to the RTT right or some of the other modifications? Wrong, while that may help it isn't the solution I require, in fact it defeats the whole purpose of owning this vehicle. I'm looking at pulling the EGT's down with an Aillisport intercooler, just waiting on Allisport to manufacture them after their move.

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Hopefully that will be a good solution for you. Another might be to ensure your running the correct concentration of coolant, and not over concentrated. I would rather run an intercooler and no ECU upgrade than an ECU upgrade with a standard intercooler due to temperature problem. The new IC will hopefully drop your temps and increase yoru power.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jazzman

I've got a newish OE scotch built radiator (can't recall the brand) which is clean, a new trans cooler, and clean intercooler. In fact up until recently the only item that was not clean was the air con condenser that has now been cleaned with profession grade condenser cleaner a fridgy mate of mine has. I hate mud an avoid it so these item don't get dirt quickly. As mentioned earlier the cooling system components are also not old, eg. water pump, thermostat, hoses etc.

What I have done which may have an inverse effect:
Full length roof rack - TJM contoured alloy
Root Top Tent - Kings fold out
ECU Tune - It maybe running a fraction rich but does not blow any smoke unless cold under full acceleration, and even then it is still way less than a Nissan Navara :)
Boost box fitted running 23 PSI measured at turbo output.
EGT temps max out at about 800-850 if you push it that hard, but often see 700.
V8 torque converter
Snorkel - Ebay special
32" tyres but with 3.9 ratio diffs so probably not an issue as almost equivalent to standard
Spot lights
Roof light bars
Steering guard
Bullbar

It doesn't even get warm until the ambient temp is over 30 degrees. I believe my cooling system may be struggling as the engine is under more load all the time, I run at GVM everyday and have a sail on the roof. I feel i'm running at the higher end of the cooling capacity of the original design. The other issue I have is when 4WDing during summer, a long hill climb with little airflow due to slow speeds gets the temps high, so does beach driving. I unplugged the fog light and plugged the thermo fan instead to overcome this issue before and it has worked OK but not brilliantly.

At the moment driving the disco seems somewhat similar to flying an airplane or submarine, constantly keeping an eye on the gauges to make sure i'm not pushing her too hard. It doesn't take long to learn what driver input effects engine temp, EGT, boost etc. It is actually somewhat satisfying but I'd rather not have to worry about it.

Simple answer is remove to the RTT right or some of the other modifications? Wrong, while that may help it isn't the solution I require, in fact it defeats the whole purpose of owning this vehicle. I'm looking at pulling the EGT's down with an Aillisport intercooler, just waiting on Allisport to manufacture them after their move.

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I already have an Alisport intercooler along with all those other mild performance mods (no tent, but fully loaded re GVM), and still looking for more cool under arduous conditions.

Co-incidentally, talking to DazzaTD5 today, who suggested lifting the rear of the bonnet with spacers to see if that helps hot air escape (before going down the side panel vents route). Sound like a possible, especially as it used to work on old hiluxes), so must remove one digit and do a mod before the next brick pulling exercise due in a few weeks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jazzman

I've got a newish OE scotch built radiator (can't recall the brand) which is clean, a new trans cooler, and clean intercooler. In fact up until recently the only item that was not clean was the air con condenser that has now been cleaned with profession grade condenser cleaner a fridgy mate of mine has. I hate mud an avoid it so these item don't get dirt quickly. As mentioned earlier the cooling system components are also not old, eg. water pump, thermostat, hoses etc.

What I have done which may have an inverse effect:
Full length roof rack - TJM contoured alloy
Root Top Tent - Kings fold out
ECU Tune - It maybe running a fraction rich but does not blow any smoke unless cold under full acceleration, and even then it is still way less than a Nissan Navara :)
Boost box fitted running 23 PSI measured at turbo output.
EGT temps max out at about 800-850 if you push it that hard, but often see 700.
V8 torque converter
Snorkel - Ebay special
32" tyres but with 3.9 ratio diffs so probably not an issue as almost equivalent to standard
Spot lights
Roof light bars
Steering guard
Bullbar

It doesn't even get warm until the ambient temp is over 30 degrees. I believe my cooling system may be struggling as the engine is under more load all the time, I run at GVM everyday and have a sail on the roof. I feel i'm running at the higher end of the cooling capacity of the original design. The other issue I have is when 4WDing during summer, a long hill climb with little airflow due to slow speeds gets the temps high, so does beach driving. I unplugged the fog light and plugged the thermo fan instead to overcome this issue before and it has worked OK but not brilliantly.

At the moment driving the disco seems somewhat similar to flying an airplane or submarine, constantly keeping an eye on the gauges to make sure i'm not pushing her too hard. It doesn't take long to learn what driver input effects engine temp, EGT, boost etc. It is actually somewhat satisfying but I'd rather not have to worry about it.

Simple answer is remove to the RTT right or some of the other modifications? Wrong, while that may help it isn't the solution I require, in fact it defeats the whole purpose of owning this vehicle. I'm looking at pulling the EGT's down with an Aillisport intercooler, just waiting on Allisport to manufacture them after their move.

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You might want to revisit the tune you are running, as those are not good egt figures for normal running, either way, you need to improve cooling or lower the fueling how old is the ecu tune you are running?

My D2a V8 was running hot 110c whilst up in the Gulf so i removed the 2x 9 inch spotties from the bullbar and it lowered the temps by about 1-2c.
On my return to Geraldton WA from the NT after having to drop my speed down to 85kph and turn off my aircon (I sometimes even had to turn on the heaters to drop the temps) to keep from overheating the engine I removed ALL the touring gear including the rear drawers fridges tools etc. and fitting a 82c thermostat and now the truck runs nice and cool.
I was towing a 1.5t boat that has quite a bit of drag and the D2a was pretty much at GVM ( most likely higher than GVM) for the trip so she was working pretty hard all the time and the temps were 40c+ as well.
I did a trip towing the same boat down the coast for 140k's and back with all the excess weight removed from the disco and the highest temps I saw was 92c, The ambient temps were only in the mid 30's But even so the engine ran WAY cooler than it did before.

My entire cooling system is pretty much brand new and I have had the head gaskets replaced recently so the engine is running as good as it can But I have come to the conclusion that if I carry too much gear she will tend to run hot most of the time.
My D2a is a great truck and I Love it But it has its limitations as far as load carrying and towing capacity and if you exceed its limitations it will run hot.

Try and lighten the load and back off on the right boot and yours should run a lot cooler[thumbsupbig]

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Originally Posted by trout1105

Try and lighten the load and back off on the right boot and yours should run a lot cooler[thumbsupbig]

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The OP doesn't want to do that, he is trying to modify the cooling system to run with the stuff he has, and exploring options to achieve this He has built up the truck to the way he wants it ( So politely Reinventing the wheel so to speak)

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Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

The OP doesn't want to do that, he is trying to modify the cooling system to run with the stuff he has, and exploring options to achieve this He has built up the truck to the way he wants it ( So politely Reinventing the wheel so to speak)

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I understand that and it is what I did myself for the last trip I did to the Gulf Country, I had the ENTIRE cooling system replaced with brand new parts.
However there is only so much the trusty old D2 is capable of doing without busting a pooper valve is the conclusion that I came up with.
Now that I have offloaded nearly all the touring gear from the D2a it can pull my 1.5t boat with relative ease, Whereas before even without the boat in tow I was having overheating problems due to the sheer amount of kit I was carrying in the truck (about 70% of which I never actually used)
If I ever use the D2a again on a touring trip I will strip all the kit I carry down to the bare minimum and chuck all the other gear on the back of the 79 series V8[thumbsupbig]
As long as the cooling system is in good order and an 82c thermostat is fitted the D2 WILL carry and tow a hell of a lot But it does have its limitations and once you exceed those limitations it can only end up it tears especially if you have a breakdown in a remote area.
YES you Can modify the cooling system to make it a Bit more efficient But at the end of the day the TD5 and the 4l V8's are Not really THAT powerful and they have their limitations.