When you replace the top hinge do the bottom one as well because the bottom hinge is now taking all the weight of the door and there is a good chance it is also on it's way out[thumbsupbig]
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When you replace the top hinge do the bottom one as well because the bottom hinge is now taking all the weight of the door and there is a good chance it is also on it's way out[thumbsupbig]
No, it is not a 'Lock Wedge' after all, [bighmmm] but named "Dovetail, Female, Rear Door". Item 52 on this.
The Bronze bit is "Dovetail, Male"
If you are still interested that is & it applies.
LAND ROVER EUROPE Rear End Door Lock
The plated rod (not shown as it is part of the body not the door) is a Striker'
Replaced my top hinge today. Took less than two hours in my backyard without access to my workshop and all it's tools, while concurrently babysitting a 15 month old running around playing with dogs, chickens and a lamb. For anyone doing it in the future, the procedure is essentially:
1. Remove spare wheel and any mounted accessories adding extra weight to rear door (in my case this was the fire extinguisher I had previously mounted).
2. Remove rear door trim including subwoofers if fitted, opener trim and handle.
3. Remove the black plug covering one of the brackets bolts on the tall door and the waterproof plastic covering the other.
4. Support end of door - I used a step ladder, the D2's factory jack with a rag folded up.
Attachment 150102
5. Remove five bolts - 3 on body side and two on door side. They were easy enough to remove without issue.
6. This is where I found I couldn't remove the bracket, I then realised the check strap needed to be disconnected so that the door opened up further around to allow the bracket out - do this by removing the circlip and prying the strap up off the mount stud. Maybe better to do this before Step 5?
7. Holding the door for support, open it further, jiggle out the old hinge and in the new. Return door to supported position.
8. Reconnect check strap and bolts into the new hinge - I tightened the body side ones tight using the markings of where the old hinge had been as my guide, then I shut the door so that the dove tail (AKA wedge) supported the door in the right closed position, climbed into the boot and tightened the door bolts - torque for the bolts is 34Nm.
Attachment 150103
9. Refurbish trim.
As my vehicle is Zambizi(?) Silver I decided to just leave the new hinge in its natural galvanised finished. Doesn't stand out too badly. Depending on your cars body colour you might want to have it painted before fitting.
Note 1: there is a gasket that goes between the body and the hinge. I couldn't find any trace of this on the original hinge I removed but I cleaned up the area and fitted it with the replacement - maybe it stops some funkyness between the different metals or something.
Note 2: you'll likely need some replacement popper plugs for the trims as some will snap on the heads when you remove the trim piece. Part number for these are: DKP5279L, TRIM CLIP DISCOVERY 1 + DISCOVERY 2.
Note 3: I went with an AllMakes4x4 pattern replacement hinge. It was half the cost of a replacement genuine part and no OEM options listed. I can't outline a specific fault with it, it fits and works ok, but I just feel like the original hinges I removed we're better. Next time I'd go with a genuine item rather.
Note 4: I possibly should have done both hinges while there but my bottom hinge on close inspection looks fine so I've left it in place for now. Definitely would have been difficult to hold the door safely with both hinges removed so would have been a one at a time job anyway meaning the only time saving would be the trim removal and refitting.
Note 5: don't do it on a windy day!
Note 6: if fitted, check your subwoofers conditions while there. I found that mine are done (the foams have failed)_ - I've got a plan for fixing this and will outline it in a new thread in due course.
Attachment 150104
And here's what the issue was with my old hinge:
1. Seems to be a bit bent on the bottom creating a larger U opening:
Attachment 150105
2. The centre pin seems to have almost sheered all the way through:
Attachment 150106
I feel like my door opens and closes a little bit smoother with the new hinge in place.
Reminds me of a post either here or another Forum somewhere where the kid was entertained & had an eye kept on it by hanging the bouncy seat on an Engine Crane nearby. Apparently worked ok for some hours.:Thump::Rolling: Two birds one stone.Quote:
hile concurrently babysitting a 15 month old running around playing with dogs, chickens and a lamb. For anyone doing it in the future, the procedure is essentially:
Glad your repairs worked out ok, I did my bloody Sliding double shed door a couple of weeks ago. [bigsad]
Marvelous what a handful of grease & cleaning the tracks does for a 30 year old door. I can actually give it a shove from one side & it now slides all the way open or closed.
Hinges/tracks seem to one of those things that are easily overlooked until they give trouble & usually a concerted effort is needed to rectify the problem.
A few months ago I needed to replace a timber verandah post & need to support the roof while swapping it over.
"Ah Mate you'll deffo need an Acrow Prop yada yada yada", I was told very firmly.
Did I ballcocks, I did what you did & used a stepladder with a timber block on top & tied the legs together to stop them moving. Job done!
Let us know what you replace the subs with,, I'm sure yours wont be the only ones failed[bighmmm]
Check out https://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery...ml#post2905904Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
