Thread: D2a being naughty AGAIN !

Originally Posted by discorevy

Out with the old , in with the new, the old one use to have no problem with hub nuts, the new one is lighter , smaller and 810 nm breaking torque ( 200 nm more than the old) exxy but you get what you pay for sometimes, old one day in day out for 7 odd years.

My Makita doubles that.

Originally Posted by d2dave

My Makita doubles that.

Which is good if you're a heavy diesel mechanic, or a chippy / scaffolder that needs to win a ****ing comp
But I'm just a mechanic and I just needed the mid torque version as there is nothing I could think of on a vehicle that would need more than 800 nm to undo , the other benefits such as 1 kilo less ,longer battery life, and a lot more compact than the hi torque version ( which make a difference when using it all day) led to my decision

vac3.jpgvac2.jpgBit the bullet and bought a new Denso alternator which fitted today. All work, battery charging, clean engine, then go to drive and brakes would hardly stop the car.

Initially check the vacuum lines having deleted the EGR, and then went the whole hog, disconnected the isolators, blanked off the whole T, so the alternator vacuum now goes straight to the brake cylinder. When I turn the engine on, push the brakes, the pedal goes hard and stays hard, very little travel.

So alternator to master cylinder, what could be wrong. With the engine off we pushed the brake, turned engine on and foot slowly goes down a bit which signifies the master cylinder is doing its job. We also tried with the vacuum disconnected and brakes won't even stop the car at idle. You have to push as hard as you can just to stop the car when the vacuum is connected. We are totally stumped and cannot take the car on the road. Sorry ending to the day

Any suggestions what I could have missed or what steps I can take next ?

Cheers,

Matt.

Originally Posted by surfingooner

vac3.jpgvac2.jpgBit the bullet and bought a new Denso alternator which fitted today. All work, battery charging, clean engine, then go to drive and brakes would hardly stop the car.

Initially check the vacuum lines having deleted the EGR, and then went the whole hog, disconnected the isolators, blanked off the whole T, so the alternator vacuum now goes straight to the brake cylinder. When I turn the engine on, push the brakes, the pedal goes hard and stays hard, very little travel.

So alternator to master cylinder, what could be wrong. With the engine off we pushed the brake, turned engine on and foot slowly goes down a bit which signifies the master cylinder is doing its job. We also tried with the vacuum disconnected and brakes won't even stop the car at idle. You have to push as hard as you can just to stop the car when the vacuum is connected. We are totally stumped and cannot take the car on the road. Sorry ending to the day

Any suggestions what I could have missed or what steps I can take next ?

Cheers,

Matt.

Well either the vac pump is not providing enough vacuum, or there is a leak In the lines, or the booster is leaking, the fact that you've replaced the alternator would suggest that you should start diagnosing around there.

as above , did you make sure both copper washers were fitted?, also check the T that goes to the egr is blocked , it's about half way between vac pump and booster

Originally Posted by shack

Well either the vac pump is not providing enough vacuum, or there is a leak In the lines, or the booster is leaking, the fact that you've replaced the alternator would suggest that you should start diagnosing around there.

Thanks for that, I think there might have been a small leak in the thick pipe that attaches to the alternator. I left the car a few hours and then connected everything back up, and is working good as new. What a day, spent more times on the brakes than fitting the new alternator, the joys of LR ownership!!

Now behave car !! Thanks for the advice, Matt.