Thread: New radiator hoses

I recommend to go with silicon, and more specifically look for the version that uses the metal junction for the top hose that uses the metal bleeder screw(nut).
100x more sturdy/reliable/less prone to stripping like the genuine bleeder screw.

Brother got his, did a few of the main ones one time, then just before out trip over Xmas, we did a few more.
I think there may have been one or two hoses that we didn't change .. more so coz they looked OK.

Stronger than genuine, fit nicer(on the whole) .. and at the same time we binned all those annoyingly hard to remove refit spring clamps, and used grub screw clamps instead.

I did my D1 hoses in all silicon a while back. I really don't like those rubber welded t-joints. On my D1 it was delaminating, and worred it may fail without warning.
I also got the kit that uses metal(I think aluminium) T junctions with separate hoses going to their designated direction.

So for me only been a year, and pretty happy with them.

note tho: both mine and brothers kits both had hoses that all needed some trimming on the ends. Some fit ok, but some hoses required a few mils removed to fit correctly.
I've seen other folks complain that fitting silicon hoses didn't fit right .. and I'm thinking this may be deliberate to allow for user fitment differences. Trimmed down, they fit perfectly.
And most full silicon hose kits will be cheaper than that.

.. something to keep in mind.

Originally Posted by John_D2

I’m going to replace my hoses soon. Is there a quality difference between Britpart and Genuine? I’ve been quoted $620 for a full set of genuine hoses and britpart is about 1/2 or less.

Do you really want to trust the Blue Bag Crap rubber products
There is a reason why they are cheap
How much do you value your engine

Like rangieman said, don't go near Brit part. Genuine is the only way to fly. Don't forget the hidden hose.

Have you spoken to Roverlord Offroad Spares? PM Mario .

Yes. Mario ran out of stock. Are all silicon hoses made equal? Also, which clamps are the better ones? From what I’ve read previously, not all grub screws are created equal.

So, not trying to open a can of worms, silicon or genuine?

Originally Posted by John_D2

.... Are all silicon hoses made equal? Also, which clamps are the better ones? From what I’ve read previously, not all grub screws are created equal.

So, not trying to open a can of worms, silicon or genuine?

I wouldn't have any issues with std rubber hoses when new.
We all know that they eventually fatigue and burst.
My major point with the silicon hoses was more about the T joints.
Brother's vulcnaised t joints not so bad(as mine), but obviously coming apart at the seams(literally) too ..

Mine has come apart at the seams(just not yet leaked).

The metal T joints is more to the point, and on the Td5, the metal bleed screw.
The dinky little plastic bleeder is so easy to strip. V8 bleeder is a plastic nut .. so maybe not as fragile as the smaller screw used on the Td5.

I've read that some silicon hoses are made 'more equal' than others. Dunno which.
I got mine off ebay, but not the cheapest ones available either.

clamps: t bolt are about as strong as you ever need. Save these if you want them for turbo hoses. Expensive!
But for water hose regular worm screw types hold up perfectly OK.
I just have preference for solid band types.
That is the band isn't cut with open slots for the worm screw. The band has raised ridges around it that the screw bites onto.

Genuine have lasted 16 odd years! Just go with them

Originally Posted by Lemo

Genuine have lasted 16 odd years! Just go with them

And genuine clamps. I have a tool for them and have replaced new for old on my rig (before it died ). Never had an issue. Unlike worm drive or the t clamps they are flexible and can expand and contract. I reckon LR engineers knew/know more about cooling than I ever will.