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Thread: New radiator hoses

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by gusthedog View Post
    And genuine clamps. I have a tool for them and have replaced new for old on my rig (before it died New radiator hoses). Never had an issue. Unlike worm drive or the t clamps they are flexible and can expand and contract. I reckon LR engineers knew/know more about cooling than I ever will.
    Do u remember what the tool is called Gus?
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    .... how the hell are the wanna be engineers amongst us ever going to reinvent the wheel with replies like that
    See ... the problem with this type of comment is, that's it of no help to the question asked.

    Firstly, if it wasn't for some 'wanna be engineer' .. we'd probably all be driving on wooden spoked 100" x 1" cart wheels, wearing a leather skin for traction!
    And I'm sure that's what we'd all prefer to be driving on, instead of some new fangled "wanna be designed" tubeless pneumatic tyres from the likes of BFG or Goodyear .. or in my instance HIFLY!

    But no one's re inventing any wheels here .. just discussing pros and cons about hoses.

    Will happily send my old main hose off my Tdi to anyone that wants a bit of a laugh at the delamination happening at the joint!
    Brother just chucked his out.
    Rubber hoses designed like that is just a joke.
    No issue with the V8 tho .. just good old std hoses, without octopus inspired design(save for the one hose).

    So much for genuine!

    Give me a well thought out product (that actually makes sense) any day .. over a half arsed, badly glued, disaster ... waiting to actually happen.
    I currently having it hanging off the tree out front on my front porch .. will get a snap of it's sad state .. and maybe a comparison of a well made sturdy aluminium design from one of those "wanna be" engineers too.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    Do u remember what the tool is called Gus?

    Hey John

    This is a variant with an extension for easy access! Haven't used this type but think its what the manual calls for?
    Google spring hose clamp tool and you'll see a few different types.
    Can usually pick up a set from any of the auto shops locally as well.

    New Flexible Wire Long Reach Hose Clamp Pliers For Fuel Oil Water Hose Tool | eBay

    Lemo

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    See ... the problem with this type of comment is, that's it of no help to the question asked.

    Firstly, if it wasn't for some 'wanna be engineer' .. we'd probably all be driving on wooden spoked 100" x 1" cart wheels, wearing a leather skin for traction!
    And I'm sure that's what we'd all prefer to be driving on, instead of some new fangled "wanna be designed" tubeless pneumatic tyres from the likes of BFG or Goodyear .. or in my instance HIFLY!

    But no one's re inventing any wheels here .. just discussing pros and cons about hoses.

    Will happily send my old main hose off my Tdi to anyone that wants a bit of a laugh at the delamination happening at the joint!
    Brother just chucked his out.
    Rubber hoses designed like that is just a joke.
    No issue with the V8 tho .. just good old std hoses, without octopus inspired design(save for the one hose).

    So much for genuine!

    Give me a well thought out product (that actually makes sense) any day .. over a half arsed, badly glued, disaster ... waiting to actually happen.
    I currently having it hanging off the tree out front on my front porch .. will get a snap of it's sad state .. and maybe a comparison of a well made sturdy aluminium design from one of those "wanna be" engineers too.
    The Question had been well and truly answered come on no need to stomp your feet

  5. #15
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    I changed out ALL of my "Genuine" hoses about a year ago, They were 14 years old and still serviceable
    I replaced them with "Genuine" hoses so I expect them to last another 14 years at least

    I agree that some aftermarket parts Can be better/more effective than some of the Genuine parts But the original hoses in my D2a V8 proved themselves to be extremely reliable so why would I gamble on aftermarket hoses especially after spending a small fortune on the engine.
    As for spring clamps V's worm drive clamps, The spring clamps are an absolute PITA to remove and fit But they are a Far superior design because they retain their tension on the hose regardless of expansion and they never "Chew" into the hose like the worm drive type.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_D2 View Post
    Do u remember what the tool is called Gus?
    Like Lemo said, they are called hose clamp pliers. This is the set I have

    9pcs Hose Clamp Pliers Flexible Wire Long Reach Plier Fuel Oil Water Hose Remove 634759930501 | eBay

    With the right tools, the clamps become a breeze. Especially the remote wire type. Let's you get into all the difficult spots.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangieman View Post
    The Question had been well and truly answered come on no need to stomp your feet

    I think you've misread my intention.

    Can't tell me this invention wouldn't be awesome on an off roader ...



    especially on soft boggy sand!
    Can see there'd be issues in goopy mud, but for most offroad situations would be pretty much ideal.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  8. #18
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    Got it...genuine hoses and spring clamps. Thanks everyone.
    "Land Rover - making mechanics out of everyday motorists for nearly 70 years"

  9. #19
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    New radiator hoses

    Don’t get a genuine top hose.
    Get Silicone Samco or similar.
    Before I got the Samco I was on brand new Genuine hose 3 in a barely a few months. Kms weren’t even worth mentioning.
    Genuine hose quality is very poor and It makes no difference the supplier.
    The genuine hoses vulcanizing around the joins is poor and coolant is able to penetrate the inner reinforced chords and capillary action does the rest, allowing coolant leaking/seeping at the ends.
    Over a number of TD5s, that’s the reason hoses we’re replaced.
    IMO it’s also why many don’t like the spring clamps thinking the hose is leaking between the fitting.
    Sometimes alternative hose clamps will reduce the weeping but clamp force isn’t the issue here.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by strangy View Post
    Don’t get a get a genuine top hose.
    Get Silicone Samco or similar.
    Before I got the Samco I was on brand new Genuine hose 3 in a barely a few months. Kms weren’t even worth mentioning.
    Genuine hose quality is very poor and It makes no difference the supplier.
    The genuine hoses vulcanizing around the joins is poor and coolant is able to penetrate the inner reinforced chords and capillary action does the rest, allowing coolant leaking/seeping at the ends.
    Over a number of TD5s, that’s the reason hoses we’re replaced.
    IMO it’s also why many don’t like the spring clamps thinking the hose is leaking between the fitting.
    Sometimes alternative hose clamps will reduce the weeping but clamp force isn’t the issue here.
    I have also had bad experience with genuine ones. A few months ago the bleeding screw has broken on the original one and I ordered a new genuine one. After installation when I wanted to bleed the new one has also almost broke. it was so tight (like glued!) and when I tried to open I was praying not to breake it. Finally it got loose and now it seems ok, but surely the bleeding screw is a weak part of the top hose.

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