Thread: Nanocom fault code 23-02 shuttle valve single switch sticking

Bet you any money the new unit has 55 rings in it and not 60 so the TC thinks your speed is different on one wheel I had the same problem with this also till I change the hub to an 60tooth one

Originally Posted by surfingooner

I haven’t got the 3 amigos, but when off the tarmac, if i hit a bump, it feels like the car is braking, haven’t seen the TC light come on, and then getting the fault code in the title. Something not right and thinking it might be something ‘Option B’ would fix. I cannot find info on the fault code, so am a bit stuck as to what s wrong ?

I changed a rear hub about 6 weeks back and only seems to have started happening after that.

Stumped !!

Matt.

Can you see all the ABS related warnings working on ignitiion self test?...cos that fault code should definitely bring the amigos on as it means that on the initial system self test the SLABS gets 2 ohm input from SVS instead of the normal 3 ohm one for released pedal.

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Can you see all the ABS related warnings working on ignitiion self test?...cos that fault code should definitely bring the amigos on as it means that on the initial system self test the SLABS gets 2 ohm input from SVS instead of the normal 3 ohm one for released pedal.

Sorry for delay in replying, been away, how exactly do I do this, no warning lights coming on at all when turn ignition on. Occasionally I test slabs and fault shows, other times it reads no faults. The braking only happens when I go over a bump hard, lasts about 2 seconds, and it has nw done it a couple of times when doing about 50kms on a dirt road. Apologies for ignorance, is there any specific test I can do using the Nanocom ?

It seems that the ABS related warning lights are disabled, you can try to force them on with nanocom in SLABS - ''outputs'' to see if they work or not, if yes check the settings for those warnings in BCU - ''intrument pack" to not be disabled, if they dont come on with SLABS - Outputs it means they are blancked somehow, usually with black tape or i've seen cases when the LEDs were removed or even broken. You have to restore the function of the lamps which means the 3 amigos should come on then fix the SVS issue with the ''option B" wiring mod(see the ''good oil section"), the erratic TC behaviour can be the result of the SVS fault or it's a missbalance between the speed sensor inputs.

Thanks for the help, the amigos returned a couple of days back, cleared the fault in SLABS, and they disappeared, so looks like I have to do Option B. Is there anyway to do this without bleeding the brakes after, I only changed the brake fluid recently and to be honest was a bit scared to do the bleed test using the nanocom.

Thanks as always, how many times have you helped me now !!

Matt.

For option B no bleeding is needed cos the hydtaulic circuit is not touched as long as you do it without removind the modulator... it's a bit fiddly but doable by lifting it enough to reach the allen bolts see from minute 7 YouTube

Originally Posted by sierrafery

For option B no bleeding is needed cos the hydtaulic circuit is not touched as long as you do it without removind the modulator... it's a bit fiddly but doable by lifting it enough to reach the allen bolts see from minute 7 YouTube

Thanks for info, finally got round to getting the circuit out, I think another ‘option’ already done. When presses the valve, got a click on one side and nothing from the other, so am going to get a replacement circuit, and re-wire as is now and see what happens.

Patience is a virtue and will get sorted when budget permits in next couple of weeks. Needed tyres and ended up getting a set, so feeling a bit poor. Matt.

Whilst waiting for my new shuttle valve replacement, I got my new tyres on at the weekend, and immediately the 7 amigos came on. I stopped and cleared the fault but it immediately came back. I cannot get rid of it, as soon as I hit 10 kmh it triggers again, and my ABS warning light is permanently on, even when cleared.

I am doing a bit of research, and it seems it could have something to do with the sensor for the replacement hub I put on it. Has anyone had the same experience of have any suggestions how to solve it ? I read a line where a guy had the same problem, switched the rear ABS leads over and the fault showed up for the same rear left wheel, which indicated it must be a fault with the sensor on the hub I bought. I bought a good brand too, so am feeling rather narked right now.

Was planning on camping with the kids at the weekend, but we won't be able to go off-road if all my warning lights are on and the TC and ABS on the blink.

Is there anyway to get around this ?

Bugger !

Matt.