Thread: Three Amigos are back!!

Originally Posted by Bohica

I have had these three pop in with increasing regularity over the summer.
1. I bypassed the connector plug below the brake booster using clips. After a couple of months, they came back. I replaced the clips with soldered heat shrunk joints. The three amigos are still here.

2. I think I will get a new hub. After market at $120 or OEM for $240. These hubs have the ABS sensor included. Being cheapskate, and being time poor, I think of replacing most of the cable all the way back to the SLABS BCU. If that does not work, it will be hub time.

3. If the ABS sensor is disconnected, will the car move? Does the ABS TC have conniptions?

Hi,
1. what do you mean by that ? .... dog my cats if i understand

2. why?, do you have tester which gave you a sensor related fault code? ...if yes read stationary live inputs and if the one with the code gives you the same voltage reading like the other 3 forget about changing any wire cos the circuit and sensor are OK so you can buy the hub without remorse... if you go for a cheap one, when it arrives remove it's sensor, mark a tooth through the hole then count the teeth by turning the bearing all around to make sure it has 60 not 55... the market is full with cheap wrongly made hubs which have 55 teeth on the reluctor ring and fitting one of those will make the vehicle undriveable by erratic TC activity so better rule that out from the beginning

3. By disconnecting a wheel speed sensor the 3(maybe 4) amigos will be on but the brakes will work normally through the hydrauic circuit like on an old non-ABS vehicle cos the electronic management of the ABS is disabled by default

X2 what SF said.... check your fault codes and sensor voltages. You could even remove and inspect the sensors and they being magnetic see if they have attracted any metal filings or swarf, that could cause erratic readings. Metal bits on the sensor could have been in there from assembly (there was a TSB for that very issue) or could indicate a failing hub.
How many kms have your hubs done, do any of the hubs display signs of failure ie bearing movement, noisey or gravelly feel, oil contamination on the rear of your brake rotors??
My D2 has clocked 380,000km and I’ve changed 3 hubs this year. In 9 years I have been visited by the amigo’s twice - both times when gravity overcame adhesion on two particularly demanding descents.

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Hi,
1. what do you mean by that ? .... dog my cats if i understand

2. why?, do you have tester which gave you a sensor related fault code? ...if yes read stationary live inputs and if the one with the code gives you the same voltage reading like the other 3 forget about changing any wire cos the circuit and sensor are OK so you can buy the hub without remorse... if you go for a cheap one, when it arrives remove it's sensor, mark a tooth through the hole then count the teeth by turning the bearing all around to make sure it has 60 not 55... the market is full with cheap wrongly made hubs which have 55 teeth on the reluctor ring and fitting one of those will make the vehicle undriveable by erratic TC activity so better rule that out from the beginning

3. By disconnecting a wheel speed sensor the 3(maybe 4) amigos will be on but the brakes will work normally through the hydrauic circuit like on an old non-ABS vehicle cos the electronic management of the ABS is disabled by default

1 Using these scotch clips scotch-clips-self-stripping-cable-joining-wire-connectors-_1.jpg The ABS cable was cut about 15cm from the hub and also cut on the other side of the 'multiplug' connector.

The ABS sensor terminates in a 'multiplug' on the inner wing valance. Page 974 in RAVE.

I have Nanocom, I'll check the voltage readings. I am inclined, if needed to buy the OEM hub.

Thanks for the information.

OMG!! tell me you didnt actually use those things??

I blame FB for stuff like this...

Yes I did use those things. Purely as a diagnostic. The car has 338K I have had it from 260K. As far as I know the hubs have not been changed.
The Nanocom input SENS V read 2.19 for all sensors. All the other inputs are the same or very close. I am up for a new hub. Now I know what to do to evict these interlopers. I will need a big torque wrench or a pipe to fit over the other one. Math time!!
I think an OEM one as that should have the correct number of teeth.
Thanks again for the info.

Julian

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

OMG!! tell me you didnt actually use those things??

I blame FB for stuff like this...

X2

Like purchasing a ready made dry joint.

Deano

IMG_1275.jpg
Here’s the setup I use to torque hub bearings. A 3/4inch drive breaker bar with short drive extension, D2 jack, a step ladder, and a helper. The red rape on the breaker is 52cm from the nut socket, I weigh 95kg. I can achieve the necessary 490Nm of torque by repeatedly stepping onto the bar at the tape mark until the bar stops moving under my static weight. At the start, and between each step, have your helper position the socket so the bar is at 2 o clock position, place one foot on the bar at the measured position and step off the ladder to transfer your total weight onto the bar using one foot only. This has to be a controlled action - no jumping or bouncing. When the bar stops moving you are done NB: you will have to calculate the distance from the nut socket based on your weight unless you are 95kg and then you can use mine. Also beware that using a “cheater” bar on a torque wrench handle with the idea of achieving a multiplier effect will only increase leverage on the drive to reduce the effort required, it does not multiply the torque applied.

I've ordered a hub from Mario. I just need to get the big torque wrench and a bearing puller.

A great explanation of how to set the torque. I need to stand at 41 cm from the centre of the hub