Thread: Three Amigos are back!!

Originally Posted by Kaaaiju

To tighten up my hub nuts I use an Milwaukee high impact M18 gun, can couple of ugga duggas and never had am issue

That’s tight tight and tight is not the problem, it’s the ones that are not tight enough! they’re the ones that fail prematurely.

The hub arrived today. Order went in yesterday. A big thankyou to Mario and Heather.
I now need a socket, the 32 mm is loose and sloppy, the 30mm does not fit. www.discovery2.co.uk / Front Wheel Hub / Bearing Assy used a 1.25 inch AF 6 sided socket. 31mm is 1.22 inches. I'll take the new stake not to a tool shop and see what fits better, I'd prefer to stay metric. And I need a bearing puller. This will be a next weekend job.

Originally Posted by Bohica

The hub arrived today. Order went in yesterday. A big thankyou to Mario and Heather.
I now need a socket, the 32 mm is loose and sloppy, the 30mm does not fit. www.discovery2.co.uk / Front Wheel Hub / Bearing Assy used a 1.25 inch AF 6 sided socket. 31mm is 1.22 inches. I'll take the new stake not to a tool shop and see what fits better, I'd prefer to stay metric. And I need a bearing puller. This will be a next weekend job.

It should go well for you, if you don't already own or have access to, consider that you might also need a gas torch, a heavy hammer, and cold chisel, and a shop press to push out a seized axle. If you know someone with an air hammer get them in on the job because, barring seized axles, that tool alone can do the job real quick and easy.

good luck...

I'm changeing the hub tomorrow. The hub is held on with 4 bolts at 100Nm. The axle,or half shaft has a whopping 490Nm, plus loctite 460 plus a stake nut. Why? is the a possibility that the half shaft could move inwards removing the drive from the wheel and maybe damaging the diff? I'm guessing that all this torque is placed on the inner part of the bearing, so that would have to be one solid part.
In case it is not obvious. I ain't no automotive/mechanical engineer.

As for the procedure, why not remove the brake calipers and disc first? In case you need the brakes to hold the hub stationary when undoing 490Nm of torque and Loctite.

Cheers

Julian

Like the the little countersunk screw holding the brake rotor on the hub, Loctite 460 is a production line assembly aid. Neither are essential for maintenance reassembly. In place of the Loctite it’s good practice to apply an Anti seize compound on the axle splines, and all threads, all contact surfaces on all components, and also on the back surface of the hub nut to reduce friction when torquing. You will thank yourself if in the future you have to go back in there..

NB: service your brake caliper slide pins whilst you have the opportunity

Originally Posted by Bohica

I'm changeing the hub tomorrow. The hub is held on with 4 bolts at 100Nm. The axle,or half shaft has a whopping 490Nm, plus loctite 460 plus a stake nut. Why? is the a possibility that the half shaft could move inwards removing the drive from the wheel and maybe damaging the diff? I'm guessing that all this torque is placed on the inner part of the bearing, so that would have to be one solid part.
In case it is not obvious. I ain't no automotive/mechanical engineer.

As for the procedure, why not remove the brake calipers and disc first? In case you need the brakes to hold the hub stationary when undoing 490Nm of torque and Loctite.

Cheers

Julian

The shaft may indeed come out with the hub if you're not careful and it could possibly damage the internal oil seal if we're talking about the front wheel hubs. Use a 2 or 3 legged puller with the centre pin on the drive shaft to hold it in place while the hub is pulled outwards. If the shaft moves, slide it centrally back in into the diff side gear - it is splined so its just a matter of finding the correct position. Break the torque and torque tighten the stake nut with the full weight of the vehicle on the ground - that would be enough to stop the hub from moving. Like said already, a torque multiplier is a game changer here and a cheap alternative to a high output torque wrench. Whatever you do, try not to disturb the front internal oil seal as they are quite awkward to replace. The stake nut torque is crucial here for the longevity of the hub. Make sure it's not less than 490Nm or else the bearing will fail fairly quickly. As for the Loctite 640, this is used to ensure full contact of the shaft splines with the hub bearing and maybe to prevent water ingress. It takes a while to cure so give it 1 or 2 hours before test driving but try and tighten the whole hub assembly within 30 mins after application.

Good luck

Many thanks to Kaaaiju who offered to help and bring the socket and bearing puller and ended doing most of the work.
After all the stuffing around, I think the next time this issue arises, sooner rather than later, I just replace the hub.

Originally Posted by Bohica

Many thanks to Kaaaiju who offered to help and bring the socket and bearing puller and ended doing most of the work.
After all the stuffing around, I think the next time this issue arises, sooner rather than later, I just replace the hub.

It, Was easy with the Milwaukee gun and the puller came in handy, was happy to help, had an good time and chat with an fellow landy owner