V8 engine help/reassurance

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They are not a good engine to own in my humble experience.

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ANY engine will suffer an early demise if they are serviced/repaired using substandard parts/gaskets/oil/filters and the 4l V8 is No different.
The head gaskets failed on mine at about the 200k mark and when the heads and sump was removed the engine was chokka block full of gunge because the previous owner had failed to do regular services and I had to have the heads acid cleaned to remove all that crap from them.
The lifters were also "Toast" because of the shoddy servicing.
ALL the parts and gaskets used to repair my 4l V8 were "Genuine" and I have very real expectations of getting another 200k out of this engine because I look after it using the best oil I can buy and use "Genuine" filters and not cheap "Knock offs" when it is serviced.
The D2a V8's are a great little engine and like ANY other engine they will only run well if they are looked after properly[thumbsupbig]

While I have heard of the lining in the composite valley gaskets coming off I have not heard it clogging the oil pickup. If it did the oil pressure light will come on and stay on.

I just use the older straight tin gaskets and have no issues though holes on all type of gaskets require modification to fit - is a horrible system. I guess the composite gaskets were introduced to lower engine noise levels because there is no other reason to fit them.

The OP has an ignition problem so coils, leads, and plugs need to be looked at first.

Garry

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Originally Posted by trout1105

fill the new oil filter with oil before you fit it

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It is a straight forward job but I have never done the above. Don't see the need.

I also have not been in a rush to finish the job and I'm assuming when re-filling the engine with oil some will naturally flow into the filter considering it's orientation.

I only oil the rubber seal before winding it on.

After starting the engine the filter will fill with the balance. Re-check the oil level and top as needed.

Attachment 151080

Thanks again all!

Oil change was pleasantly easy.

I’ve got a set of coils on the back seat as well as a transmission service kit, will be doing front/rear diffs, transfer and trans service myself Friday. Any recommendations for oils/quantities?

Whilst I’ve got the top end stripped for the coil pack replacement I thought I may as well do the rocker gaskets as well - seeing allot of options for the gaskets online, some seem far too cheap to be any good, is there a brand you all stick to? Also whilst I’m doing this is it worth replacing anything else, valve gasket etc.. ?

Apologies for the barrage of questions - I don’t fancy doing this again for a good few thousand km’s ha.

Cheers!

do at least a couple of trans fluid changes,, use a synthetic for heat purposes, while you are under there check the auto cooler trans hose connections, where the line changes from steel to rubber, twist!! These commonly blow off,, and ruin your entire day... [wink11]

glue all gaskets. Opinions vary. Your research, Your money, your decision. [wink11]

Check the below linkRocker Cover Gasket Replacement - V8

And the link within this link.

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Originally Posted by Andrew D

Check the below linkRocker Cover Gasket Replacement - V8

And the link within this link.

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This is perfect thanks! Between this, the Atlantic British videos and the rave I reckon I’ve got a fair chance.

In regards to the glue I’m seeing so many mixed thoughts, e.g goo/glue/non hardening etc.. is the purpose to get a small adherence for an easier fit or to help with the overall seal?

Might sound a silly question but is it best to fit the gasket to the cover and then place or the other way around?

Cheers again - Bunch of legends have saved me a massive headache [emoji1417]

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Originally Posted by DanW90

In regards to the glue I’m seeing so many mixed thoughts, e.g goo/glue/non hardening etc.. is the purpose to get a small adherence for an easier fit or to help with the overall seal?

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Use the loctite 518 (also get a little socket with the same number of points as the rocket cover screws)

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Originally Posted by DanW90

Might sound a silly question but is it best to fit the gasket to the cover and then place or the other way around?

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Fit the gasket to the cover first. There is a lip on the gasket so it helps to fit it on the cover and then rest the cover on the seal (on a nice flat and clean surface) for a while.

Watch out for the steel spacers in the gasket. Check it on the new gaskets. When you remove the old gasket the spacers have a tendency to become loose and fall out of the gasket. 4 in each gasket.

The delaminating Rocker Valley Gasket was a big problem when they were first introduced about 20 years ago.
I saw a few at Graeme Coopers .
FYI of youngies-
There are 2 types of valley gasket. One has a layer of "stuff" that looks like rubber bonded to the underside. This is supposed I guess to lower noise and also make it easier to make the gasket oil/fuel etc tight.

The second type is just stamped steel and has been used since time immemorial.

I have seen a Arab tent disease that is applicable to headlining occur on the laminated ones, although I had a good run with them.

It is entirely believable that it is a common affliction. Maybe the high temperatures a Thor runs at contributes to the problem. You can use an old style valley gasket on a new engine.

Regards Philip A

Evening all,

Finally managed to get the coil pack fitted and new gaskets on. But..... Disaster. Far far worse. No power at all now, terrible idle, major misfiring, glowing cat and violent juddering. How/where could it have gone so wrong? I tripled checked the firing order. At a complete loss now. Gone from an intermittent mis to no car..

Any ideas or is it time to get it booked in [emoji37]

Cheers!