Just a breather.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
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Just a breather.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
Adjusting the input bearing preload
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4333bb0a81.jpg
I've seen here and other places that the shaft can be re sleeved. What about the other end of the shaft? RAVE is not too helpful with images.
TIA
Julian
I don’t think the rear shaft hole needs re sleeving. The engineer said it was the same size as the shaft - he did quote the tolerances which I can’t remember. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d6c3360b1d.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1b3d01df64.jpg
Have I assembled these gears right? The big cog goes towards the front doesn’t it?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d70dd78dc3.jpg
Also, how do I fit the diff lock selector shaft? I really can’t remember how I disassembled it! The manual shows:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b6c1c8fbed.jpg
But I have a metal plug in the hole
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...99fee1a6c9.jpg
And I’m not sure if you can assemble the shaft and fork prior to re mounting the front housing. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b07edd31ef.jpg
The internal hole adjacent to the big cog
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a11d40c556.jpg
Me thinks the rear of the shaft dont wobble n wear cause it is better supported with the locking/locating plate/washer or may not suffer as much load/thrust as the front.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bohica
Just wondering if someone might be able to help me with my above question regarding how to fit the shaft. Do I have to remove the front output housing again?
Turns out that you have to remove the metal plug in order to fit the CDL selector shaft. I ended up removing the front housing to gain access with a punch. Luckily I didn’t use a paper gasket so I didn’t have to reset the preload as I only had 1 set of gaskets. Something had to work in my favour!
Turns out that TRS are no longer fixing/servicing D2’s.
So...is removal of the old TC and fitting this one relatively straight forward? It looks like a case of unbolting the handbrake, both drive shafts, the centre console, and removing the old one.
Is it this easy? Any tips?
Never swapped D2 transfer case for another. My guess is it should fit. Watch out you don't lose or forget about any locating pins between t/c and gearbox.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_D2
Centre gear seems correct orientation - assume you're well past that now.
Been a while since doing a case. From memory the selector shaft is put in place before attaching the casing.
Check you have the correct detent ball bearings for the ratio selector and centre lock selector. Make sure your two selector shafts work firmly but not with difficulty, and hold without being bumped out of position by simple knocks. Pressure required to move the selectors is dependent on the pressure applied on the detent ball bearings by the springs, which is in turn are affected by how much you screw down the grub screws. People sometimes complain their selectors jump out.
One selector shaft has 1/4 inch grooves and the other has 3/8 inch grooves. Of four boxes I have opened the ball bearings in these grooves have all been 3/8inch and no 1/4 inch. I don't know if LR intended just to use 3/8 inch for both selectors. I substituted in 1/4 inch ball bearings for the 1/4 inch grooves and got better holding without inhibiting movement. Also check the shafts that the ball bearings sit in. I had one incident where the shaft was bell shaped. If, after installing the selector, you dropped the ball in from the top then the waist of the bell stopped the ball fully engaging in the groove on the selector - the selector hardly held its position. So i then inserted the ball in from the bottom before installing the selector - in this case the selector movement jammed the ball into the bottom half of the waist - the spring itself could not return the ball bearing as the spring was jammed in the top of the wast. My remedy was the drill the hole through.
Funny, I don't recall having to drift out any plug to fit a selector. I assume a welch plug? These are often just used to seal a machining access point and to stop oil getting out (or water).
Regarding removal. After buying any D1 I've always removed t/c and gearbox together, using an engine lifter through the passenger door, and then separate them on the ground, but then my intention is to do all seals including the engine rear - and in this case I do remove the centre consol and rivets (replaced with bolts and lock nuts). If removing t/c alone then a floor trolley should do, although you should ensure you use full height on your axle stands to give you maximum wiggle room under vehicle. Not sure you will be able to undo lever linkages without tackling the console to some extent, but by an large the removal of console/gearstick (auto's for me) is straight forward. Only annoying issue can be the rivets on disassembly, and hand brake ratchet mechanism on reassembly.