LT230 Rebuild

Thanks for your advice. I’m 99.99% certain that I’m using the CDL ball and not the other one. When I disassembled I made sure I kept it on the CDL side of my work bench. I dropped the ball followed by the spring in. Then following the rebuild manual, I coated the grub screw with loctite and screwed it in all the way (ensuring the ball was in a groove) then backed it out 2 full turns.

I need to get rid of my a backlash so we can go camping in the school holidays. PCB is booked out, so I might do the swap myself. I mean, D2 on ramps in my driveway, what could possibly go wrong? I have a shop jack so that should help at least.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John_D2

...backlash...

---

My D1's and a D2 are all autos, and backlash has never been apparent - not sure why - maybe I'm lucky and nothing is really worn out that matters - maybe in manuals there is little stress (some coasting) in the gear train between gear changes before resumption of pressure and then some 'clunk'. Vague memory that square cut gears have more backlash but are stronger than tapper cut gears also known as 'quiet' gears, which I think may be stamped 'Q' on the casing, but someone else can confirm this. Checking the position and depth of the contact wear pattern on the teeth may also give you a clue as to whether you have end float issues etc.

Agreed. It’s never been a problem until about 2 months ago. It’s rapidly worsening and the TC is leaking lots more than normal. Something bad has happened. I’m interested in taking it apart to investigate

If you haven't started (to remove/refit) already, I'd recommend to have a seal for the rear of the transmission .. output seal that is.
For the sake of $10 or so, while you have the access just change it.
Just checked, part No. is RTC4650

Can't remember how easy/hard it was to refit transfer case, but I don't remember it being too hard.
Did you make a dolly for it for the trolley jack?
U on your own? ... or do you have some help(muscle!!) to help fit it.

If your just popping off the t-case
Remove the main engine radiator fan and shroud
Pull all the rubbish out of the way
Exhaust, driveshafts, linkages from up top.
Take load off the gear box mounts and remove
Let whole drivetrain tilt downwards on the engine mounts - not too much but just enough to let t-case slide back easily.
Support gearbox

You can build a plate to support the t-case but in honesty, with the brakedrum removed it really isn’t that crazy heavy? You have a test case to lift. Lie on your back and see if you can manoeuvre it above your head?

S

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by roverrescue

If your just popping off the t-case
Remove the main engine radiator fan and shroud
Pull all the rubbish out of the way
Exhaust, driveshafts, linkages from up top.
Take load off the gear box mounts and remove
Let whole drivetrain tilt downwards on the engine mounts - not too much but just enough to let t-case slide back easily.
Support gearbox

You can build a plate to support the t-case but in honesty, with the brakedrum removed it really isn’t that crazy heavy? You have a test case to lift. Lie on your back and see if you can manoeuvre it above your head?

S

---

Why take off the radiator fan?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John_D2

Why take off the radiator fan?

---

I'm guessing the bottom of the fan will potentially dig into the bottom half of the D2 radiator. Radiator hoses (or at least the top hose) might need to come loose as well depending on degree of tilt.

Once you remove the gearbox mounts that just leaves the two engine mounts and your trolley supporting the t/c-gearbox-engine combo. The engine mounts allow a lot of flex when dropping the t/c end via your floor trolley - so being all connected, when the t/c tilts down the engine and its fan tilts up reducing space between radiator and fan. As Roverrescue suggests, independently support the gearbox when partly lowered to allow you to remove the trolley jack and t/c. It's handy to have two trolley jacks.

As for myself I wouldn't have my head anywhere near a t/c that is being wiggled off its bolts if it has not been gutted of it's gears or otherwise has good support. To lighten the load the standard ratio input gear can be easily taken out after removing the cover and bearing support plate. You may get the centre gear out if you can knock the centre shaft out far enough but there may be interference and i have not tried this - the two ratio gear is heavy. And from memory you should also be able to remove the centre diff in its part housing to further lighten the load. It's going to be a different matter getting your box that has been rebuilt on the floor, back on.

Tilting should allow you more room to reach around the top of the t/c if necessary. I do this tilt on the D1 when wanting to reach the very top bolts that secure the bell housing to the engine, so freeing the gearbox. Forget the school holidays, remove the entire gearbox instead and do the engine seal as well...[thumbsupbig][bigsad]

...as I was reading your very thorough write up I was actually thinking that maybe I should replace the trans also. It takes quite a while to get into gear, it’s done 315k and I have a 160k one available for a good price. Maybe I might go back to Plan A and pay someone to do both the trans and the transfer at once. I have a new rear main seal in the garage, so that would be a good opportunity to do it also.

What would be humorous would be to replace the trans & TC just to learn that the rear diff is on the way out also!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by John_D2

...as I was reading your very thorough write up I was actually thinking that maybe I should replace the trans also. It takes quite a while to get into gear, it’s done 315k and I have a 160k one available for a good price. Maybe I might go back to Plan A and pay someone to do both the trans and the transfer at once. I have a new rear main seal in the garage, so that would be a good opportunity to do it also.

What would be humorous would be to replace the trans & TC just to learn that the rear diff is on the way out also!

---

If the rear engine seal is like that on the D1 then ensure it and the shaft are not lubricated when the seal is installed. Given I have not done much on my D2 yet, you might need to check the information on installing the D2 seal. In simple terms the D1 seal is under tension, and when friction heated it closes more tightly around the shaft for a better seal - and as some wits out there are knowingly thinking, lubrication reduces friction heat.[bighmmm]

No, the rear diff will not really be a problem. In the time it takes the garage to refurbish your t/c and gearbox you yourself will have ordered and fitted an Ashcroft rear locker. In which case you may as well get a torque biasing centre diff...arrhh, sigh, where did all the holiday money go?!

NT school hols start tomorrow for three weeks. When's yours?

School hols in SA are in 2 or so weeks. We’ve come to realise that we prob won’t be going camping for as long or as remote as planned. Insert sad face here.