Master
Greetings All,
I think I've posted a couple of things but this is my first real post.
I know that there's a few threads on these topics, but my questions span all of them. So, a bit of background first.
I have a relatively low mileage (210k) manual Td5 D2 without the CDL internals. The transfer case has been making ominous noises for some time and, eventually, ceased driving the rear wheels. I found, for a very reasonable price, a fully rebuilt D1 TC, did a lot of research on AULRO (for which I thank everybody) and got on with it. HOWEVER, rather than use a D1 or D2a CDL lever, I decided to install a vacuum operated CDL actuator which uses the solenoid for the EGR since the EGR has been removed. I'd post the link but I have no idea how to reduce a 2 line long ebay URL to a hyperlink but if you look on ebay for "Land Rover Discovery 2 Centre Differential Lock (CDL) Actuator Kit" you'll find it. It's pretty simple, at the solenoid you detach the original EGR block connector and connect the new connector which operates the new vacuum unit for the CDL. The vacuum pipe fits on to the middle vacuum connector on the solenoid. The other wiring is simple providing power to a switch and back to the block on the solenoid. And, it works!
Being a D1 TC, I've changed the top HI/LO shaft housing for the D2 housing and the output flanges for the D2 shafts. Haven't looked at the HI/LO switch yet. So, the particular issue is that when I switch on the CDL the coolant temperature light comes on, flickers then stays on. No CDL warning light but I haven't checked the switch yet. Also, no 3 Amigos. I've got a D2a SLABS ecu on the way.
As I said, the vacuum actuator works and the CDL engages but the coolant warning light on the dash comes on when CDL is engaged. I'll deal with the CDL warning light later and sort out the HI/LO switch but why would the coolant light come on? Any ideas?
Thanks
Lawrence
YarnMaster
Hi, did you unplug the original electrical connector from the EGR modulator ? ... also confirm that when you say "coolant warning light" you mean the led within the coolant gauge and not the transmission temp warning which looks like a cog in the right top corner of the dash cos if it's that the explanation is simple
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Master
I should have known you'd come along Sierra, and thank you! The connector for the vacuum actuator replaces the original EGR connector so it's gone. And, pardon my ignorance on this, but you're absolutely right, it's the transmission temp light, not the coolant light. I should have looked at the handbook.Originally Posted by sierrafery
YarnMaster
OK, that's quite common as some manual modells dont have the wiring for the CDL warning and the connectors for the transmission temp are the same and unused, or you can have the CDL too just that you connected the others... the wires for the CDL should be black/blue while what you connected i'm sure is black/green(the others are black for both) if no black/blue wire with female spade there you'll have to remove the console, get to connector C0668/0681, cut the black/green wire at pin 4 which comes from the transfer case side) and splice in with it into the black/blue wire at pin 7 ... then you'll have the CDL warning
C0668.jpg
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Master
Sierra, you are a legend! I'll get back under the bloody thing tomorrow and take a proper look.
YarnMaster
Good luck and i edited my pevious post cos i misstyped blue/green insted of black/green at pin 4
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
Fossicker
Very useful information from Fery! I will receive tomorrow the CDL linkage from Ashcroft and connect it in the coming days. I have the sensor wired but not adjusted yet so i do not know if it will actuate the cdl or the temp lamp
But at least i know now what to check.
Edit: seems that I will have to modifiy the wiring as well. Looks to be green on a photo taken a few months ago.
Master
I've solved the CDL light issue thanks to Sierrafery but I've got another query about my D1 transfer case. Being a D1, it doesn't have the Hi/Lo switch or a hole to put one in. How does the lack of this switch affect the running of the vehicle? Also, is there any way to fit a switch without drilling a hole in the case (which ain't going to happen anyway)?
ChatterBox
Subscriberthe switch changes the mapping , if it affects the type of low range work you intend to do , you could simply run the existing wiring through a toggle switch in the cab activated when in low range.
The D1 housing doesn't have enough thickness in front of the internal selector to run a thread for the switch even if you wanted to.
Nice work Sierrafery
Master
Thanks for the info, I had a feeling it was something like that. I do virtually no low range stuff in the Disco (I have another non-LR truck I use for that) so I'll ignore the issue as it won't really affect me.
Cheers
Lawrence
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