Did you look inside the switch for corroded contacts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemo
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Did you look inside the switch for corroded contacts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemo
Next on the list [emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by alien
As long as the BCU misses to complete the earth to the relay's coil the problem is on that path, if you have nanocom disable the passive immobiliser and see then cos if it's active and the passive remobilisation exciter coil has an intermittent interruption that's what happens cos the BCU cuts the earth of the starter relay for immobilisation, this can happen due to RF receiver or fob missbehaviour too... unless it's BCU fault as you suspected, if the symptom occurs again turn on manually the courtesy lamp and if it comes on the interior fusebox is ruled out but if not there's your problem
if that was ruled out and you replace the BCU all you have to do is to disable the odometer error warning and not touch any of the "sync IP to BCU" or BCU to IP commands then the mileage on the odometer will stay as it is
Just going to replace the BCU this weekend and see how it goes, I’ve a lower mileage BCU and IP as replacements so will put the “new” BCU in and sync the existing IP mileage to the it.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
Really think it’s a faulty BCU as it’s not just one fault but several, none start, B/ flashing and also M&S limp mode! All at different times over the last few days.
But again going to inspect the XYZ switch to rule that out before changing the BCU over as well.
Cheers Lemo
You should have mentioned the flashing crossed B from the beginning cos that is a clear sign of BCU or IDM failure, BCU in most cases, if the BCU doesnt cure it you'll need another IDM(interior fusebox)
About post #5 I mentioned it and yeah it’s what Im thinking as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
Will pull the fuse box and give it a once over to see if there’s any signs of corrosion etc as well.
Funny thing is yesterday and today it’s been starting ok but a few times I needed to shift in and out of park to get it to start so maybe XYZ switch??
Haven’t had time today to get the other BCU in, renovation in full swing and shovelled a mountain of dirt today!!
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...88636ba9c3.jpg
Cheers Lemo
Changed the BCU over today,
A few scratching head moments!!
FYI - Existing BCU has the flashing M&S on the IP and can bus fault on auto ECU.
First off read and recorded new EKA code incase I stuffed up!! Synced keys
Changed vin number
Tried to sync IP cluster speedo and can’t? BCU is lower then IP odometer reading.
Installed new firmware on namocom (anyone know what firmware is the latest if read from nanocom info?) Just turned off the speedo warning
Synced/learned security from BCU to ECU and all appears ok.
No faults and driving as normal
Have to disable the lock doors after moving later!! A bit of a what the moment!! Wasn’t enabled on the old one.
Cheers Lemo
Then you have to use the "sync BCU to odometer" command... though if this doesnt work for some reason don't worry, the BCU should self adjust to the IP's mileage after 16 ignition cycles.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lemo
Another update
Had a few no start issues again [emoji53]
But a quick shift out of park or lock/unlock with the fob would allow starting.
On one non start the security led was solid red and after a lock/unlock led out and able to start??????
Have done the following since.
Removed and cleaned XYZ switch, had a discoloured contact
https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery...8b0c4ee6ec.jpg
Pulled ECU cleaned red plug, tiniest amount of oil in the plug under the white section and on the terminals
Pulled internal fuse box, all had a light covering of corrosion, liberally cleaned with contact cleaner. Couldn’t get to the inner sections of the circuit boards to give them a good clean so will see how it goes??
Might see if I can get a new one to completely eliminate that as a fault?
Voltage reading via nanocom of power distribution of BCU has it at 11.5v but putting a volt meter on the battery reads 12.1v.....
Might be just a little flat from all the test starting I’ve been doing and it hasn’t really had a good run for a while, lots of short trips round town.
Will give the battery a good charge tomorrow, really disappointing if it’s a flat/stuffed battery it’s only just over 2ish years old!! Will get it load tested also.
Cheers Lemo
Saga continues!
New battery, optima blue top D27M. Didn’t have time to faff around with the old one!!
Installed and get in to start, [emoji35] M&S lights on and now have XYZ switch fault.... cleared and comes back, cleared again ok??
Tested switch with nanocom all contact make as per rave table so what now???? New switch???
Cleared all these faults re xyz switch and go to start, vroom and away we go.... turn off and try again, now it won’t start[emoji35][emoji35]
And have the security led on solid red.... press the fob unlock and starts.
Disable passive coil and passive immobiliser and haven’t had a problem starting the last 5 or so times??
So what now, just leave it and be happy it’s running? Try get the coil passive immobiliser working again? Is there a way to test the passive coil?? Or the key not accepting the magnetic field and transmitting its code??
Or still fuse box not telling the passive coil to energise??
Perplexed
Lemo