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Thread: Cranks without starting

  1. #11
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    Pressure testing the fuel supply lines will not show an injector washer leak.
    If you suspect the washers are leaking I'd recommend changing them before your trip, if they leak diesel and it mixes with the engine oil it can create a "run away" destroying the engine.
    I think you are being a bit alarmist there.

    I believe that the cause of the non starting is that the combustion pressure in a cylinder forces air into the fuel system when a motor stops on a cylinder with a leaking washer. This means on the next start that the injector/s is /are injecting air. This also is suggested by the fuel pump cavitating which implies air in the system. The compression pressure of 250-300PSI is far greater than the 40PSI in the fuel system.

    I did not see any rise in oil level when my washers were leaking. If much diesel were to escape into the combustion chamber there would be hydraulic lock and a bent rod.

    The BIG danger is when the orings at the top of the injectors leak, so that diesel escapes into the oil system , the oil level rises until the oil is forced up past the rings and Kaput.
    Regards PhilipA

  2. #12
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    Apr 2016
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    I'll add to the chorus of injector seals.
    Maybe not seals .. maybe just a seal .. ie. only one. And even at that .. only a fraction of that one seal may be leaking.

    This was how brothers turned out.
    Did the same, hard to start, could sometimes cough and splutter, then it started to run out fuel .. kind of symptom, where it'd shut down randomly after starting and going.

    First thing we thought was sounds like a half dying/weak fuel pump. Pump was removed, new one fitted.
    Could clearly and easily see inside the tank, crystal clear clean diesel .. no muck, no residue, no water .. nothing other than .. just clean diesel.
    Fuel pump body and filter gauze wasn't overly dirty .. not as clean as a new one, maybe a light brown colour.
    But .... it still turned out to be a single copper washer was allowing leaking. tiniest amount.

    Good part is, they're not a hard job. Took me and bro maybe 3 hrs .. mainly trying to work out what everything was(first time TD5 mechaniching to this extent).
    Cost won't be overly prohibitive, seal kit is cheap.
    Main point is to take it to a reputable workshop .. so as already mentioned maybe chase up TD5Dazza earlier or even discorevy if it's within your travels.

    You did mention that you changed a few things .... actually same stuff that we did on brothers car .. except we didn't do alternator, but we did a fuel pressure regulator.
    But have you also had the injector loom changed recently? If it's not been changed, plan for it to be on the parts list too. Strongly advised.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
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    TD5 engine manual

    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    I'll add to the chorus of injector seals.
    Maybe not seals .. maybe just a seal .. ie. only one. And even at that .. only a fraction of that one seal may be leaking.

    This was how brothers turned out.
    Did the same, hard to start, could sometimes cough and splutter, then it started to run out fuel .. kind of symptom, where it'd shut down randomly after starting and going.

    First thing we thought was sounds like a half dying/weak fuel pump. Pump was removed, new one fitted.
    Could clearly and easily see inside the tank, crystal clear clean diesel .. no muck, no residue, no water .. nothing other than .. just clean diesel.
    Fuel pump body and filter gauze wasn't overly dirty .. not as clean as a new one, maybe a light brown colour.
    But .... it still turned out to be a single copper washer was allowing leaking. tiniest amount.

    Good part is, they're not a hard job. Took me and bro maybe 3 hrs .. mainly trying to work out what everything was(first time TD5 mechaniching to this extent).
    Cost won't be overly prohibitive, seal kit is cheap.
    Main point is to take it to a reputable workshop .. so as already mentioned maybe chase up TD5Dazza earlier or even discorevy if it's within your travels.

    You did mention that you changed a few things .... actually same stuff that we did on brothers car .. except we didn't do alternator, but we did a fuel pressure regulator.
    But have you also had the injector loom changed recently? If it's not been changed, plan for it to be on the parts list too. Strongly advised.
    I have changed the injector loom, in fact since I've had the car (less than 6000km ago) I've done front-wheel hubs, maf, injector loom, engine mounts, feul filter housing, feul pump, steering and Track rods, and all new fluids and filters(twice). It had no service history but drove better than others I had drove that did. So bit by bit I'm doing the upgradesCranks without starting. I was going to try Darren but I had to book him in 3 weeks in advance before, and my car only started playing up just over a week ago, the garage does seem to have a good reputation and they could fit me in quickly, I will phone Dazza on Monday, but good mechanics are always busy.

  5. #15
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    perth
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    Hi everyone, just an update, now had a new pump, crank angle sensor and had the injector seals changed and the PITA is still difficult to fire up sometimes. Any more suggestions of where to look, I'm starting to face financial ruin with this problem.
    Pete

  6. #16
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    Sounds like it's just getting parts thrown at it , if it has had the head removed in the past , then I'd be checking cam timing.
    If the seat faces of the injector washers weren't spotless when replaced they will continue to leak

  7. #17
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    Could it be the injectors themselves

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Perth Western Australia
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    Bit late in the thread now, I assume OP has it sorted, but...

    *Check the fuel filter and ensure there wasnt a seal left behind in the filter head on the last change (as in there are 2 seals up there)
    *Make sure the fuel filter isnt over tight.

    *As everyone else has suggested:
    Injector seals and if done incorrectly will leak again.
    In tank fuel pump, only use a VDO brand one, cheap ones dont work.

    Honestly hard pushed to think its anything else.
    Generally a failed crankshaft position sensor or a failed ECM (engine computer) will be a cranking and no start all the time.

    Is the fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel?

    P.S oil in the injector harness plug or oil further down in the ECM plug will also cause hard starting but I assume this has been looked at.
    Regards
    Daz


  9. #19
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    Sep 2018
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    perth
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    I guess you'll have to tell me when your free to look at it Dazza, you might have to keep it for a few days to catch it not starting, but if you can book it in at your convenience I would appreciate it.
    Pete.
    I will phone Rovertech on Monday to give them a chance to check their work and be confident they've done a good job.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    In behind the fpr set into block is a gauze mesh filter size of a pen lid, wonder if this was cleaned if fpr was replaced?

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