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So an EU3 ECU and intercooler is worth tracking down then, don't have a Nanocom but i guess i can find someone. If i bypass the modulator then once i get to the overboost limit (22PSI ?) it will shut down? how do you you get past the limit, i'm guessing only with a remapped ECU? I'll start doing some research on prices. Who does the BAS ECU?
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Originally Posted by knuts2au
You need an boost box to bypass the factory limit I am running 25psi on my setup with an manual boost controller,
You just need to find an auto or manual NNN ecu and get an td5inside remap and it will be so much better
The intercooler just helps the egts
The Td5 will definitely benefit from an upgraded inter-cooler (I fitted an Allisport Inter-cooler to mine when I had it) and give noticeable improvements at low revs - but this was with a manual. I found I could hold 3rd gear down to much lower speeds. As soon as you start remapping the Td5, as posted above you must get an EGT gauge fitted as it will hit high exhaust gas temps very quickly. With a remap you will end up driving to the EGT to keep temps below 600. I would not remap without an EGT gauge fitted.
The Td5 also responds well to fitting an external tuning box, but a remap is the safer option. So upgrade the ECU and then get a Td5Inside remap and make sure you specify the intended use and you will get a map that suits you best. I would limit torque to 380-400Nm unless you want to also upgrade the gearbox - both the auto and manual are rated for 380Nm. Once you have a remap you then may also want to upgrade the torque converter - Ashcrofts did a heavy duty torque converter for the Td5 which had a much lower stall speed but I believe these are hard to get hold of now. The standard auto TC has a stall speed far too high and outside where the Td5 is making peak torque but they did this to mask the issue with the Td5 bogging down at low revs. With the remap on an auto you may even want the peak torque to be held between 2000-3000 rpm as only the manual will truly benefit from getting torque down lower.
At around 400Nm you will find the D2 is as quick as the stock TdV6 D3. I fitted a DTUK tuning box to mine (no longer available) which was hard wired to only switch on under near full throttle using a toggle switch under the throttle, and with the Allisport IC and it would accelerate about 0.5 second quicker from 0-100 than my stock D3 which is a big improvement over the stock D2. I back-calculated I would have been getting around 420Nm of torque from these two mods alone. Was good for short sprints and overtaking, but a remap would be better and safer for sustain high loads as I could easily hit 600-700 deg EGT. Tuning boxes need to be used with caution.
Enjoy the mod path you take - once you start though it becomes addictive and you will spend more and more on each incremental gain until you realise it is time to get a D3. Good thing is when you do sell the D2, all your mods can be removed and sold separately which will get you more money back (so keep the original ECU and IC).
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Originally Posted by Kaaaiju
You don't need a boost box to bypass the factory limits, a good tuner should be able to modify the factory limits without adding one.
I'm running a tune that isn't using one, it's only a "stage 1" type of tune but would do what the OP has asked and more....
My old disco always hit boost cut at 21psi but my new d2a with an td5inside hybrid turbo has to have an boost box installed so it can trick the map sensor as I can run 29psi now and no issues
For the OP get an NNN ecu and an td5inside remap with an Euro 3 IC and you will see an massive improvement