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Thread: Engine low oil light. Change it to a pressure gauge, any one done it?

  1. #1
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    Engine low oil light. Change it to a pressure gauge, any one done it?

    Well, a strange thing happened , my oil light kept coming on intermittantly, upon checking every thing was as it should be, continued on. Then it stayed on. Decided to check simple things first, To the low oil pressure sensor on the oil cooler. The fitting that clamped on to the sensor unit, with a wire I'm assuming goes to the light, just had a black wire hanging loose. It looks a though there should be another wire fitted next to that black wire, the only other loose wire in the engine bay is a white wire from the alternator. I know the system works on voltage drop, but to have a voltage to start with, I assume [ there's that word again] that that wire from the alternator should be connected to the connection. Is it possible to bypass this set up by connecting a fitting to accept a pressure gauge fitting in place of the sensor unit on the oil cooler, thereafter running the bits & pieces to a gauge on the dash. ? I'm not going to think worst case until I check the pressure. Thanks in advance.
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

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    I fitted a gauge to my D2 TD5 when like you the oil light came on intermittently. The problem turned out to be damaged wiring to the sender unit located behind the turbo.
    + 2016 D4 TDV6

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    LR must have got a special on wires as the black wire does Nothing/nada.

    You can fit a gauge sender with a n adaptor and also have a light, but I would buy a new sender.

    IMHO gauges ( and lights) are a bit of a waste of time as by the time you see a drop, the engine is toast, particularly if the oil pump bolt loosens.
    Otherwise you just worry when the oil pressure looks low at idle. If the oil pressure is low on a TD5 the rest of the engine will be worn and you will see lots of other clues like excessive blowby.
    Regards PhilipA

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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    LR must have got a special on wires as the black wire does Nothing/nada.

    You can fit a gauge sender with a n adaptor and also have a light, but I would buy a new sender.

    IMHO gauges ( and lights) are a bit of a waste of time as by the time you see a drop, the engine is toast, particularly if the oil pump bolt loosens.
    Otherwise you just worry when the oil pressure looks low at idle. If the oil pressure is low on a TD5 the rest of the engine will be worn and you will see lots of other clues like excessive blowby.
    Regards PhilipA
    Thanks. With 421000 + kms I don't think it is the bolt. There is no blowby, or very little. So, do you know which wire goes to the light? It operates on voltage drop, so I'm thinking there must be a voltage input from somewhere. But there are only two sockets, and one is for the black wire.
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

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    Quote Originally Posted by Milton477 View Post
    I fitted a gauge to my D2 TD5 when like you the oil light came on intermittently. The problem turned out to be damaged wiring to the sender unit located behind the turbo.
    Thanks. I seem to have a lack of wiring to the sender. Just a black wire that goes no where. Doesn't make sense.
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob10 View Post
    Thanks. With 421000 + kms I don't think it is the bolt. There is no blowby, or very little. So, do you know which wire goes to the light? It operates on voltage drop, so I'm thinking there must be a voltage input from somewhere. But there are only two sockets, and one is for the black wire.
    From memory there’s a Black wire (goes nowhere) and a White(?) wire.

    The NON-Black wire is the one that should be connected to the switch.

    The switch is normally closed, opens when pressure builds, and if pressure fails then the circuit closes to ground (engine block) and the light illuminates.

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    I know the system works on voltage drop, but to have a voltage to start with, I assume [ there's that word again] that that wire from the alternator should be connected to the connection.
    You know wrong... that's a simple pressure switch normally closed to earth which opens under pressure, while it's closed it completes the warning lamp's earth path hence the lamp is on then when pressure opens it the lamp goes out... the alternator has nothing to do with this also as PhilipA said the black wire is futile cos the switch is earthed via fixing... if you have a white(with green trace) wire hanging from the alternator you have to connect it back where it belongs cos it's the alternator's protection.

    EDIT: @Tombie was faster
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    From memory there’s a Black wire (goes nowhere) and a White(?) wire.

    The NON-Black wire is the one that should be connected to the switch.

    The switch is normally closed, opens when pressure builds, and if pressure fails then the circuit closes to ground (engine block) and the light illuminates.

    Thanks. Starting to make a bit of sense. Just can't find the wire that goes to the switch. There is a white wire coming from the alternator which is hanging loose , on the other sise of the engine. Oh well, looks like I have to trace it back from the light. Happy days. Cheers.
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking

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    Quote Originally Posted by bob10 View Post
    Thanks. Starting to make a bit of sense. Just can't find the wire that goes to the switch. There is a white wire coming from the alternator which is hanging loose , on the other sise of the engine. Oh well, looks like I have to trace it back from the light. Happy days. Cheers.
    Loom passes behind the engine above the bell housing.
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    yep , white wire will come out of the harness between the top of the starter motor solenoid and the fpr pretty much in line with the sandwich plate , one branch to crank angle sensor , another to fuel temp sender and single white wire goes over bell housing to oil pressure sender .
    It's probably been touching earth somewhere bringing the light on

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