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Thread: G'day. Water Pump installation.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    Arrow G'day. Water Pump installation.

    I am the less than proud owner of a 1999 Discovery 2 V8 auto. I bought it cheap ($3800 with 138K) as I gave my run-about car to my daughter who has return to study at Uni. I wanted something "interesting" that I could work on. Little did I know what I was getting into. This is my first Rover vehicle but I always wanted to try out their V8, either a P6 or a Range Rover Classic. Price and lack of availability preclude either so when this Disco became available, I bought it. The truck has the centre muffler replace with a straight pipe and it sound great, but does tend to drone around town. We enjoy driving it long distances having clocked up 5000 km in 9 months, but it has not been without its problems.

    I have spent almost as much fixing up problems with the truck as what I paid for it.

    So far, I have done the following:-

    New trim around the windscreen (one blew off when passing a semi).
    New Tie Rods and Drag Link (+wheel alignment).
    New Plugs and Leads.
    New Air Flow Mass Sensor.
    New Brake Master Cylinder.
    New front and rear brake discs and pads.
    New braided braked lines.
    New Oxygen sensors.
    New shock absorbers (front and back).
    New wiper blades.
    All new radiator, hoses and thermostat.
    Replacement Coil Pack.
    Automatic transmission services with filter changed.
    All fluids changed, including diffs, transfer case, ACE and power steering.

    I took the car to a mechanic friend of mine to check it over. He diagnosed three extra things:
    Front prop-shaft uni joint badly worn, oil pump very noisy and strange ticking in motor.

    I am in the process of replacing the oil pump and the Prop-shaft uni. While I have removed most of the front of the engine, I am also replacing the water pump. Which brings me to my questions.

    1) Do I use just the supplied paper gasket or coat the gasket with a light coating of sealant or use a sealant on its own?
    2) Should I replace the water pump bolts? The are partly corroded but clean up reasonable with a wire brush. I plan to run the bolts through a die and re-tap the holes in the block to clean the threads.
    3) Should I use thread sealant on the three longer bolts that go through the water jacket?
    4) Should I use "copper grease" anti-seize or just thread locker?

    Any help would be mach appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Now I don't own a v8 my car is a td5 but I think you are on the right track the paper gassket I would put a gasket sealant on if you have any bad feelings about the bolts not being quiet up to standard replace them better to be safe then sorry I find cooper grease to be my freind when doing theses jobs. This may seem over kill but for the small cost of useing sealant and copper grease may save you redoing the job 6 months down the track there is a sealant I use I got it from auto barn Rolls Royce use it so it is good stuff I dont have any at the moment and forget what it is called but would think auto barn or another auto shop would know it best of luck when all is sorted out they are very good cars.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    I took the car to a mechanic friend of mine to check it over. He diagnosed three extra things:
    Front prop-shaft uni joint badly worn, oil pump very noisy and strange ticking in motor.
    Nearly all the things you have quoted as repairs seem just a result of lack of maintenance by the previous owner.

    I would put priority on repairing the front driveshaft as if the UJ lets go it can destroy the Auto transmission case.

    The mysterious tick in the engine is most probably just a leak in the exhaust manifold gasket/gaskets, or a cracked exhaust manifold.
    IMHO you are correct to use the sealant( smear only) and copperslip.

    The Noisy oil pump could be a belt tension pulley or the aircon. remove the belt and spin each to check for noise.
    Regards PhilipA

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Townsville Nth Qld
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    I agree 100% with PhillipA. The most important repair is the Front UJs before I did anything I would do those. If they let go you are in a whole new world of hurt. Anti seize is a good idea as well as replacing corroded bolts. My mate who exclusively works on Land rovers in Townsville, swears by using single hex sockets, saves rounded heads . all the rest is routine maintenance. Once completed and checked regularly you will have years of fun.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Townsville Nth Qld
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    Further, on the paper some say no gasket just sealer, others gasket dry, myself I use both gasket with just a smear of sealer on both sides. key word smear.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    I got a second hand front prop shaft from TRS and fitted it. I attempted to initially repair the Double Cardan joint but couldn't split the joint. The replacement looked in better shape so I am happy, apart from the cost. Fitted the water pump using a smear of blue sealant. Replaced the oil pump but someone had butchered the thread on the high pressure pipe. Ended up taking the brass fitting from the old pump and, in conjunction with a small file, massaged the thread and got the fitting attached. Then removed the brass fitting from the new pump, got the thread started, then re-attached the new brass fitting plus hose to the pump on the engine. It took multiple attempts before I finally got the brass fitting in line so that i could screw it into the old pump by hand. Replaced the serpentine belt and coolant tank at the same time. So far, no oil or coolant. I used the Nulon pink stuff in the radiator, which also helps to show leaks.

    Anyway, thanks for all your help and advice.

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