Thread: The Curious Case of the RHS ARB Winch Bar Indicator.

Check if the new indicator works by connecting directly to the battery or known power source to be sure that the new light works. However due to the corrosion that you've seen, the terminal inside the car side connector is likely to be sufficiently corroded as to not pass any current. Scratching the surface with a fine screw-driver, spike or similar device may remove enough of the corrosion to allow it to work.

I ended up replacing the entire set of wires from the head light unit loom, removing the cable splicing bits with soldered and heat shrink sealed joins. The indicator works properly.
I noticed that the parking light on the head light cluster was not working, I removed the light socket and saw the globe against the lens, where I think it will stay.

You'll have to find something else to fix to fill out the rest of that month!

My new braided stainless steel brake lines arrived today. That's another day, maybe a day and a half with bleeding the brakes.

Originally Posted by Bohica

My new braided stainless steel brake lines arrived today. That's another day, maybe a day and a half with bleeding the brakes.

Do you have a Nanocom?

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Do you have a Nanocom?

Yes I have a Nonocom, I've bled the brakes with it before, but with the silf isolation, I like to stretch things out. I am still waiting for a dead LT230 to get here, so I can take it apart and fix it up!! A few days there. If I don't have the car to work on the wife will have me painting the painted house etc.

Originally Posted by Bohica

It was not a dark and stormy night in the city by the bay. Hobsons Bay not San Fransisco. The weather was in fact good. Bright and sunny with an expected top of 20C.
I had replaced the old RHS ARB Winch Bar Indicator, as it did not work. The lamp socket was corroded to buggery. Yet the new unit did not work. What follows is a description of the investigations carried out in order to solve this hienous crime. I will only list the relevant details.

Check the continuity from the headlight cluster to the indicator unit connector. The wires to the indicator unit connector are spliced off the headlight cluster loom, so if there is continuity from the headlight cluster connector to the indicator connector then this splice will be ok. This checked out.
Check the continuity from the inidicator connector through the globe(s) back the the earth. All good here.
Check globe(s) they work.
Check voltage at car side connector good voltage for the side light, fluctuating voltage for the indicator. Well the indicator is going on and off faster than the multi meter can react.
Connect the indicator to he loom and the park light works, the indicator does not.
As I am stuck at home, I have all day, week, month to work on this. I could remove the connector and splice the wires together, but what with going through water, and corrosion, an easier indicator replacement is preferred, and there is no gaurentee that will will solve the problem.
What else could I try?
Time for a cup of tea and a think. I have after all, a lot of time on my hands.

CHeers

Julian

I have used waterproof heatshrink/solder connectors for this type of repair with great success, I even have connections under the waterline on my boat for the underwater lights that have been on there for over a year without any issues as well.
These are simple to use, create an effective join and are relatively inexpensive as well

Originally Posted by trout1105

I have used waterproof heatshrink/solder connectors for this type of repair with great success, I even have connections under the waterline on my boat for the underwater lights that have been on there for over a year without any issues as well.
These are simple to use, create an effective join and are relatively inexpensive as well

That is what I ended up doing. The only tricky part was getting the blow torch low enough with out going out, to melt the soldier and shribk the wrap.
Those wire splice things are not that good.