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Thread: TD5 Low Power

  1. #1
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    TD5 Low Power

    Hi All,
    Let the games begin! A little history.
    I bought a D2 TD5 about 2yrs ago as a donor, but I found it was in much better condition mechanically than my play car, so I started to fix it up ready for RWC.
    In another thread I mentioned a botched exhaust stud repair so I needed to swap heads. I had one skimmed and it sat in my shed for 18mths as I work away.
    Due to the virus, I was able to work from home so had time to finish this project!

    Cleaned up the block, assembled the head and plonked it on. After a bleed she fired up and ran pretty sweet I thought.
    So just before I booked it for RWC, I took it for a short drive up my street - she wouldn't pull the skin off a custard!
    A stall test had the revs max out at 1950. This is consistent with the max revs on the road test.
    So it's fault finding time!

    A couple of fuel mistakes I prob need to address as well.
    I didn't drain the tank and replace the old diesal. I just topped up with fresh so I will be doing that and replacing the filter, as it could be starvation. I could also swap the pump from my donor, but I'd like to check it first.
    One time only I noticed a heavy diesal leak from the rear of the engine, so I suspect fuel regulator. I haven't been able to get it to happen again but I'll swap that as well. (It's a disco, I will swear doing that!)
    I have noticed that there is a slight miss every so often at idle so I need to sort that but, if it's a blocked injector how do I test that?

    MAP and MAF will be swapped out coz I've spares (unknown condition but worked when I last used them).

    I'll then look at the boost. I have a nanocom so I have mapped the injectors and there are no fault codes.
    I swapped over all my silicon intercooler hoses and fitted a D2a intercooler.
    I've swapped the modulator but will bypass and then check the actuator as they're easy to eliminate.

    Could be a frustrating few days!
    Any tips?

    Cheers
    Ralph

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    I'll then look at the boost. I have a nanocom so I have mapped the injectors and there are no fault codes.
    If you have a Nanocom, then look at the injector correction values on idle.
    If they are all pretty consistent and below say 2% then they are OK. If there is a blocked injector the adjacent injectors should show a high compensation value.

    Look at the boost sensor in the inlet manifold to see that it is clean and you can check the boost value on Nanocom.
    You hopefully will find it is something simple like a loose hose clamp so check all the pressure side hose clamps.
    I usually find that even mechanics will make at least one mistake or overlook something on a big job.

    Good luck
    Regards PhilipA

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Location
    Brissy! No flannos here!
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    Well, hopefully it's sorted. I methodically checked all the turbo and intercooler pipes and hoses and low and behold, I'd left a hose clamp loose on the turbo side! Easy fix for the win!

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