Then it looks like I've got a faulty mechanism somehowQuote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
Anyone ever taken one apart before. Looks like two roll pins hold the shaft in place.
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Then it looks like I've got a faulty mechanism somehowQuote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
Anyone ever taken one apart before. Looks like two roll pins hold the shaft in place.
PhilipA
It is an auto
And as far as I know factory fitted.
As I said before even when removed completly from the truck it will only move the shift lever when in one position, though why that is I have no idea
Hi.....if your stationary you will probably only be able to engage the diff lock when in neutral (unless you stopped with cogs aligned between front shaft and diff). The dog clutch needs to slide over the diff cogs engaging those of the front shaft at the same time....(hence locking the diff to the shaft). When in neutral its probably allowing the diff to spin round into position and letting the dog clutch slide over. If you are attempting the shift in H or L when stationary this could be your problem (no give in the diff). Whilst I believe you could make the shift up to 60km/h...I'd do it crawling along...thinking about it, your trying to push the dog clutch into cogs..why put it through unnecessary force at speed. Also, don't run in diff lock on hard surfaces (like the road)...it will wind up your drive line and you could damage something. The only time you would run on a hard surface with cdl engaged is when running on only one prop shaft. Hope this helps.
Not really.Quote:
Hi.....if your stationary you will probably only be able to engage the diff lock when in neutral (unless you stopped with cogs aligned between front shaft and diff).
The diff lock is just a big dog clutch and the selector is spring loaded . It will go into locked position even if the dog is not engaged and then clunk in as soon as the dogs are in a position to engage.
I have no idea why the OPs is not working in all positions. Mine does and it is one that is added , although the linkage is an OEM one and I even have the sticker.
I think it need someone underneath looking at what is moving etc while someone is above watching.
Why not undo the arm on the diff lock then try to move the linkage in both ratios with someone underneath watching. that will tell if it is something to do with the shifter or is the diff lock selector.
Regards PhilipA
Hi PhillipA, I agree, clutch is spring loaded and cogs have to be aligned.
I would have thought the clutch will only engage with alignment of the cogs. This alignment would be done by the diff moving relative to front shaft or if stationary, the car stopped with them aligned? If in a stopped position and cogs are not aligned I would have thought engagement of CDL will not occur until you start moving? The clunck that might be heard is the spring loaded clutch hitting the cogs and better indicator of full engagement is the dash indicator light. Which I thought might/might not go on when stationary depending on cog alignment.
I should also clarify that it's my personal preference to do at lower speeds, when I opened it up that whole clutch arrangement look pretty fragile. Technically the front and rear shafts should run at similar speeds with the diff setup only making fine adjustments and shifting to CDL at speed is ok, but specified not to be over 60kmh.
Also agree with you that should work in all positions. But given that it seems to work perfectly in neutral, it doesn't make sense that it's not working in other positions.
Hi MtVista, have all your tests been done stationary without any movement?
There's no issue shifting the CDL dogs at any speed as long as you are going in a straight line.
It's no different to any dog clutch 'box, although the dogs aren't as beefy as a face dog 'box
No the dash light goes on as the selector shaft goes forward. It is on a ramp on the selector shaft and it is the fork that is spring loaded ie the shaft can be forward but the CDL not engaged. If you want to engage before an obstacle always a good idea to zig zag a couple of times so that the front and rear shafts differ in speed..Quote:
and better indicator of full engagement is the dash indicator light. Which I thought might/might not go on when stationary depending on cog alignment.
The CDL is not necessarily engaged when the dash light is on. You have to wait for the clunk.
Similarly it is not always disengaged when the light is off. You should drive with a couple of wheels on a loose surface particularly if you have turned corners on a hard surface.
Used to be a real problem on LT95 but not so much on LT230.
Regards PhilipA
On my old 74 FJ40 I had to reverse 100metres once to disengage 4WD and I still broke the selector knob off.
A part of the selector arm is encased by the spring and fork.... I thought it was the fork section through which the selector arm is threaded (closest to diff) hits at least the first sensor when it moves across and engages the cdl. What you are saying is the light goes on (independent of fork position) even without a clunk....just need to move sector arm and it indicates positive engagement - that's not great. I have a picture with the fork part threaded through shaft closest to diff sitting under one sensor, admittedly taken during dismantling a year ago so may have moved across beyond typical operation...but seems a better design if indicator activated this way. (Mine has two sensors next to each other, versus sensor and detent on other variations. Wish I had taken notes when playing round with them.)
Maybe the differences we observe could relate to the year of LT230 make.
Well that is news to me .Learn something every day.Quote:
Maybe the differences we observe could relate to the year of LT230 make.
There is only one sensor on the nose on mine and it is a simple switch which travels up a ramp . The switch is located near the back of the nose.
My LT230 nose is from a 2000 or thereabouts .
Regards PhilipA
Mine is a late 2003. Just googled 'LT230 cdl' and in images has clear picture of fork section hitting sensor (with overlayed red arrow). I remember testing the system with circuit tester on the two sensors. Made sense why they had two when testing but clueless now. Also utube clip came up on how to engage cdl and shows box with twin sensors like on my unit.
Whilst it appears we are deviating from the issue of box not working.....which box you have and how sensor works could be relevant to trouble shooting the problem.
Just noted you refer to date of your LT230 nose (as opposed to case), that's clever, as the nose may have been changed and not relative to the code punched on side of case.