Rear Prop Shaft Uni-Joint Conversion

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

Yes, if you're not breaking donuts then I wouldn't change to a uni joint. If you are breaking donuts I would try the thicker donut by GKN first. The donuts absorb vibrations from the driveline and give a smoother drive. Even the massive output engines like BMW M3 and Commodore V8 still run donuts in their driveline these days to smoothen the vibrations.

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Yes, but that doesn't consider the angles of the shafts once the vehicle starts to be lifted above stock height. I assumed, but never measured or checked, that the Tom Woods unit provided better angles on this with the addition of double cardian at one end and uni at the other on the rear shaft - but I suppose a double cardian could have been added onto the opposite end with a donut on the other too...

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Yes, but that doesn't consider the angles of the shafts once the vehicle starts to be lifted above stock height. I assumed, but never measured or checked, that the Tom Woods unit provided better angles on this with the addition of double cardian at one end and uni at the other on the rear shaft - but I suppose a double cardian could have been added onto the opposite end with a donut on the other too...

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With radius arms (and the D2's are nice and long) I'm guessing the pinion angle doesn't change much if at all, regardless of articulation or lift?

Not sure. I'll consider it further if/when the current setup expires. At present I don't notice any undue vibrations and it all works safely so my requirements are met.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Yes, but that doesn't consider the angles of the shafts once the vehicle starts to be lifted above stock height. I assumed, but never measured or checked, that the Tom Woods unit provided better angles on this with the addition of double cardian at one end and uni at the other on the rear shaft - but I suppose a double cardian could have been added onto the opposite end with a donut on the other too...

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It sure does consider the shaft angles of lifted vehicles. The radius arms have the pinon angle pretty consistant as it tracks around a very similar pivot axis for both the radius arms onto the chassis and the tailshaft into the gearbox. Its a very different setup to other LandRovers where a lift does increase the pinion angles.

The double cardins dont really give increased angle, they're more about managing the oscillations that form when any uni joint runs at an angle. Because in the D2, the joint at the gearbox is normally where there is an angle and the diff is normally not too far off having no angle, the double cardin has to be at the gearbox end. If I'm reading your post correctly, if you run a rubber coupling at the gearbox end and a DC at the diff, you would chew out the rubber coupling pretty quickly because of the angles in it and the DC really needs some angle in it for it to provide any benefit over a regular single uni joint which it wont really have in that location.

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Originally Posted by rick130

Google the coupling, I bought mine from a BMW parts supplier in Melbourne, boxed as a Febi-Bilstein part but genuine SGF-GKN and it was under $100.

The Febi part # is 26148

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Thanks Rick
Just ordered this part $129 delivered
Thanks for everyone's comments and help as usual a knowledgeable and helpful crew

I was gong to fit new bolts but the SHCS's I bought were too short in the grip length (unthreaded shank) so reused the old ones and fitted new cone nuts.
They are juuust long enough

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twr7cx

Yes, but that doesn't consider the angles of the shafts once the vehicle starts to be lifted above stock height. I assumed, but never measured or checked, that the Tom Woods unit provided better angles on this with the addition of double cardian at one end and uni at the other on the rear shaft - but I suppose a double cardian could have been added onto the opposite end with a donut on the other too...

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I've run the stock rear shaft with the 4" lift and 33's without issue for 10+ years.

The donut on mine is still the factory original, so 20 years old, and only just needing replacement now.

In fact, the only part of the driveline changed has been the Front shaft.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

I've run the stock rear shaft with the 4" lift and 33's without issue for 10+ years.

The donut on mine is still the factory original, so 20 years old, and only just needing replacement now.

In fact, the only part of the driveline changed has been the Front shaft.

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I only replaced the (original) donut as a precaution, it's 17 years old and a reinforced elastomer of some description so reckoning it's near end of life but it actually looks fine so I've kept it as a spare.

That's mine from the weekend, towing an broken d2 up steep rocks and mudhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b9917cbf58.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1c7b2fa0b9.jpg

Just a quick update the rubber doughnut is now installed with longer bolts (grade 10.3) and all is well and smooth again

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