Thread: Rear Prop Shaft Uni-Joint Conversion

Why not call Bruce Davis?

Land Rover Performance Upgrades, Tuning, Modifications & Accessories - Davis Performance
Regards PhilipA

Take to local driveshaft specialist and see if they can match the UJs up?

There are many of us that have removed the rear donut from our drivelines. I personally used a Tom Woods double cardian setup instead and changed the flange on the diff to suit.

Measure the unis across the cross and the diameter of the cups.
That'll match with something off the shelf and will be pretty straight forward to cross reference.
Hardy Spicer have downloadable PDF's with almost all available uni sizes in them.

If it's Spicer 1300 size use the Land Rover/GKN/Hardy Spicer HD uni, not a Spicer 1300 uni, the genuine Land Rover uni is a stronger uni.

BTW, Slunnie was going to convert back to the donut from his Tom Wood shaft to reduce the rear driveline vibes.

I used a HD donut, basically the donut out of a BMW M3 to try and overcome the 'weakness' of the donut.
It's the same brand/German made as the genuine LR one but thicker/higher torque rating.

Just take it down to a Hardy Spicer shop. They will identify and swap them out much quicker and easier than you can do it.

It just looks like a standard Uni-Uni Disco1 rear propshaft which is what I ran for a while too after doing a uni conversaion on the Disco2.

The conversion was just a disco1 rear uni-uni tailshaft and a 4bolt pinion flange on the diff - you can get these from an early D1 rear or any D1/D2 front diff.

Originally Posted by rick130

Measure the unis across the cross and the diameter of the cups.
That'll match with something off the shelf and will be pretty straight forward to cross reference.
Hardy Spicer have downloadable PDF's with almost all available uni sizes in them.

If it's Spicer 1300 size use the Land Rover/GKN/Hardy Spicer HD uni, not a Spicer 1300 uni, the genuine Land Rover uni is a stronger uni.

BTW, Slunnie was going to convert back to the donut from his Tom Wood shaft to reduce the rear driveline vibes.

I used a HD donut, basically the donut out of a BMW M3 to try and overcome the 'weakness' of the donut.
It's the same brand/German made as the genuine LR one but thicker/higher torque rating.

Thanks Rick I'll look it it up don't want any more vibes than I have lol

Originally Posted by rick130

BTW, Slunnie was going to convert back to the donut from his Tom Wood shaft to reduce the rear driveline vibes.

I used a HD donut, basically the donut out of a BMW M3 to try and overcome the 'weakness' of the donut.
It's the same brand/German made as the genuine LR one but thicker/higher torque rating.

I missed this, sorry.

Yes, if you're not breaking donuts then I wouldn't change to a uni joint. If you are breaking donuts I would try the thicker donut by GKN first. The donuts absorb vibrations from the driveline and give a smoother drive. Even the massive output engines like BMW M3 and Commodore V8 still run donuts in their driveline these days to smoothen the vibrations.

A stronger Rotoflex possibility.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I missed this, sorry.

Yes, if you're not breaking donuts then I wouldn't change to a uni joint. If you are breaking donuts I would try the thicker donut by GKN first. The donuts absorb vibrations from the driveline and give a smoother drive. Even the massive output engines like BMW M3 and Commodore V8 still run donuts in their driveline these days to smoothen the vibrations.

A stronger Rotoflex possibility.

Thanks Slunnie,
I have just found your write up on the rubber coupling and found it covered everything i need to know regarding the rear drive shaft. I'm going with the 35mm thick rubber coupling and will also change the original prop-shaft uni as well.
I only have a 2" lift so i think this will be fine for what i am doing.