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Thread: Rear Hub Seal recommendation for D2

  1. #1
    lukasdiscovery2 Guest

    Rear Hub Seal recommendation for D2

    Hi All

    Grease on the rear brake pads so thinking the hub seals are gone. Sure its not just the o-ring this time. Investigating replacement hubs and want to get top quality so I'm not doing them again in 12 months time. Online searches have produced part number TAY100050. I've found price variances from $99 - $587 so im lost as to why there can be such a price difference. Obviously there is a big difference in quality? Not all websites specify the actual brand they are selling. Could I get some advice about what brand or from what website I should be buying to ensure I'm doing this process once!

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    Go to a bearing seller who stocks CR seals. Cleanliness and careful, correct fitment are of the utmost importance. Check the shaft for grooves.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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    p38arover's Avatar
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    Aren't the hubseals in the rear wheel bearing? Can you replace the bearing? I think I have an old one in the garage to look at - later. Of it's like the P38A, it's possible but not easy.

    See Lori Sickley's old site:

    P38A front wheel hub from 1995 Range Rover 4.0

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    Just make sure the diff breather is clear before investing in new hubs.

    I've had that symptom on several Land Rovers including my D2 and it was a blocked diff breather every time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lukasdiscovery2 View Post
    Hi All

    Grease on the rear brake pads so thinking the hub seals are gone. Sure its not just the o-ring this time. Investigating replacement hubs and want to get top quality so I'm not doing them again in 12 months time. Online searches have produced part number TAY100050. I've found price variances from $99 - $587 so im lost as to why there can be such a price difference. Obviously there is a big difference in quality? Not all websites specify the actual brand they are selling. Could I get some advice about what brand or from what website I should be buying to ensure I'm doing this process once!
    Roverlord, a vendor on this forum sells quality European made hubs and prices are very reasonable too...
    LROCV member #131
    1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....

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    Quote Originally Posted by lukasdiscovery2 View Post
    I've found price variances from $99 - $587 so im lost as to why there can be such a price difference. Obviously there is a big difference in quality? Not all websites specify the actual brand they are selling.
    I'm not sure who the OEM is for this part, but personally I'd only buy either genuine or OEM given how long these last. If you use a UK parts supplier they're usually pretty good at indicating which is pattern, OEM or genuine parts being sold.

    Only the o-ring seal is replaceable on them. The bearings can't be replaced separately to the assembly.

  7. #7
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Why muck around. THE full list Price for the genuine part FTC4919 at a Land Rover dealership is only $3.43 +GST = $3.78, you get the correct size


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    Why muck around?

    I have been pleasantly surprised by the cost of genuine parts from Melbourne Land Rover in Port Melbourne. Cheaper than the cheapest online seller and, for me, very easy to get to.
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    So couple of things here:
    1. If it is leaking from the axle, the seal you will need to get original only, it is cheap and the only one that will work. part number for this is FTC4822, i believe front and rear are the same.
    2. If you need to change the wheel hub always fit OEM or original. if it is an aftermarket part, then it will not last. Also i do not think they are servicable, so you cannot change just the bearing.
    3. Change the lock nut, part number should be CDU1534. This needs to be tightened up to 400Nm, less than that and it will destroy the wheel hub pretty quickly.

    hope this helps

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    Why muck around. THE full list Price for the genuine part FTC4919 at a Land Rover dealership is only $3.43 +GST = $3.78, you get the correct size
    Based on the opening lines of the original post:

    Quote Originally Posted by lukasdiscovery2 View Post
    Grease on the rear brake pads so thinking the hub seals are gone. Sure its not just the o-ring this time. Investigating replacement hubs...
    I think he's talking about needing an entire new hub assembly rather than just the o-ring seal. I imagine that's considerably higher list price at the LR dealer...



    Quote Originally Posted by mad85 View Post
    1. If it is leaking from the axle, the seal you will need to get original only, it is cheap and the only one that will work. part number for this is FTC4822, i believe front and rear are the same.


    No, front and rear are not the same. FTC4822 is an inner oil seal suitable for the front only. It's for where the front axel shaft exists the diff tube before the CV. The rear doesn't have a CV so the hub bolts straight onto the end of the axel tube and therefore only an o-ring seal is required.
    As for being cheap - that's subjective and depends which seal your referring to. The front seal is about 11 times more expensive than the price of the rear...
    I disagree with using original only. The OEM NAK brand units are equal in quality at a fraction of the price of genuine.

    Quote Originally Posted by mad85 View Post
    3. Change the lock nut, part number should be CDU1534. This needs to be tightened up to 400Nm...


    Stake nut and the torque specification is 490Nm.

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