Go to a bearing seller who stocks CR seals. Cleanliness and careful, correct fitment are of the utmost importance. Check the shaft for grooves.
Hi All
Grease on the rear brake pads so thinking the hub seals are gone. Sure its not just the o-ring this time. Investigating replacement hubs and want to get top quality so I'm not doing them again in 12 months time. Online searches have produced part number TAY100050. I've found price variances from $99 - $587 so im lost as to why there can be such a price difference. Obviously there is a big difference in quality? Not all websites specify the actual brand they are selling. Could I get some advice about what brand or from what website I should be buying to ensure I'm doing this process once!
Go to a bearing seller who stocks CR seals. Cleanliness and careful, correct fitment are of the utmost importance. Check the shaft for grooves.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Aren't the hubseals in the rear wheel bearing? Can you replace the bearing? I think I have an old one in the garage to look at - later. Of it's like the P38A, it's possible but not easy.
See Lori Sickley's old site:
P38A front wheel hub from 1995 Range Rover 4.0
Click on the images.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
Just make sure the diff breather is clear before investing in new hubs.
I've had that symptom on several Land Rovers including my D2 and it was a blocked diff breather every time.
I'm not sure who the OEM is for this part, but personally I'd only buy either genuine or OEM given how long these last. If you use a UK parts supplier they're usually pretty good at indicating which is pattern, OEM or genuine parts being sold.
Only the o-ring seal is replaceable on them. The bearings can't be replaced separately to the assembly.
Why muck around. THE full list Price for the genuine part FTC4919 at a Land Rover dealership is only $3.43 +GST = $3.78, you get the correct size![]()
I have been pleasantly surprised by the cost of genuine parts from Melbourne Land Rover in Port Melbourne. Cheaper than the cheapest online seller and, for me, very easy to get to.
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
So couple of things here:
1. If it is leaking from the axle, the seal you will need to get original only, it is cheap and the only one that will work. part number for this is FTC4822, i believe front and rear are the same.
2. If you need to change the wheel hub always fit OEM or original. if it is an aftermarket part, then it will not last. Also i do not think they are servicable, so you cannot change just the bearing.
3. Change the lock nut, part number should be CDU1534. This needs to be tightened up to 400Nm, less than that and it will destroy the wheel hub pretty quickly.
hope this helps![]()
Based on the opening lines of the original post:
I think he's talking about needing an entire new hub assembly rather than just the o-ring seal. I imagine that's considerably higher list price at the LR dealer...
No, front and rear are not the same. FTC4822 is an inner oil seal suitable for the front only. It's for where the front axel shaft exists the diff tube before the CV. The rear doesn't have a CV so the hub bolts straight onto the end of the axel tube and therefore only an o-ring seal is required.
As for being cheap - that's subjective and depends which seal your referring to. The front seal is about 11 times more expensive than the price of the rear...
I disagree with using original only. The OEM NAK brand units are equal in quality at a fraction of the price of genuine.
Stake nut and the torque specification is 490Nm.
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