Clever way to do it. Tho I did twitch every time.he called it a truck.
This popped up in my youtube recommendation and thought it wasnt a bad idea so decided to pass it on here.
YouTube
2000 Discovery 2 td5 Auto (Sandy)
2" dobinsons springs and bilstein shock,
Arb steel winch bar, homemade rear drawers,
steel rear bar
7" Led spotties, Roo systems awning, 3 cross bar roof racks
265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W
Clever way to do it. Tho I did twitch every time.he called it a truck.
It is a cheap option But it is also a cheap and nasty option as well.
I would hate to have to rely on such a "Flimsy" actuator to engage/disengage the CDL when even the factory fitted actuator tends to stiffen up if it isn't used on a regular basis.
As the D2 is such a robust and well designed 4WD I personally couldn't bring myself to fit such an inferior bit of kit to it, Especially to something as critical as the CDL.
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
I have a similar solution (using a vacuum actuator from some old turbocharger + solenoid from EGR) on my car - done by the previous owner. Photo from when it was installed attached. Working without any issues for 7 years. I trust this solution more than the original cables.
Might be cheap and nasty was only posting to give others an idea or another option. Also looks fairly homemade so thats why it looks flimsy.
2000 Discovery 2 td5 Auto (Sandy)
2" dobinsons springs and bilstein shock,
Arb steel winch bar, homemade rear drawers,
steel rear bar
7" Led spotties, Roo systems awning, 3 cross bar roof racks
265/70R16 Falken Wildpeak AT3W
Years ago this was discussed and a member produced a rather affective but flimsy actuator rod from the cdl pinion and ran a piece of flat bar out and under the drivers door to actuate the cdl. This was in show and tell at the time , it still may be.
Admittedly , some don't have engineering skills as is/was my trade.
I just went one step improved on the above and made up a joggled lever with a ball end screwed to it and fitted the ball end to a length of 8mm stainless steel rod , threaded each end , made a fairlead plate and passed the rod with a tee handle fitted between the body and chassis. Operating meant getting out the car and pulling the tee handle and conversely pushing it when finished. I clearly marked the position of the tee with a solid white arrow which saved getting upside down just to find it. It really wasn't a chore to do, once on the dirt it stayed on. Remember locking hubs? We got in and out to those all the time. Small inconvenience. I used it too many times to mention and being staino always stayed clean and shiny. A squirt of lubricant on the ball end and fairlead kept it in good nick.
I think I put up photos of it 12/13 yrs ago but can't find anything now.
Cheers Den
Vacuum solenoid is better than my original plan (then I got a d2 with the lever already added) of a car lock actuator.
I wouldn't call it cheap and nasty, if it works ..
Only thing I'd find annoying, depending on exactly how it's set up), would be having that lever pull thing sticking out when engaged. I can imagine that it would be poking out in annoying way in some way.
Other than that .. why not.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
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