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This is from the Td5 technical academy
"There is a timing mark on the front of the camshaft for each of the injector’s lobes. This mark will align with the edge of the cam carrier housing to signify that the relevant injector lobe is at its maximum point"
Stand up on the bull bar and look down at the cam you will see lines and numbers say 1, 4 ,3 ,5 ,2 etc there is an lip on the house and you will see it line up
It used this and it's the easiest method
Hello and thank you for clarifying everything with the injectors!
I took a little holiday and today i got the car back from the garage. washers and o-rings are changed, injectors are adjusted but the problem remains. Mechanic said that it could be a cracked head that leaks some fuel into the cylinder, but it was a guess, and i'm not really conviced about that, since there is no fuel in oil nor air in the fuel that would cause poor starting.
My next step is putting some injector cleaner in fuel, and if that doesn't work maybe i will try pressure checking fuel galleries in head.
And if everything fails i will consider swapping the td5 for BMW 3.0 diesel [biggrin]
Buy am AMC head that's what I did cost me alot $4.2k but worth it
Some night time reading that may help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maciej
Resources
first up you look to be geeting oiling past the rings...Quote:
Originally Posted by Maciej
Stop everything and check the oil for diesel dilution and level, clear the crank case ventilation system and then start it up again if all is ok (just dump and replace the oil if you need to) with the breather pipe removed.
Its also worth looking in the intercooler to manifold hose at this point.
no real need if the balance values are accurat 0+/-1 is excellent.Quote:
Originally Posted by theelms66
before you go replacing the fuel pump read up on the return/line bleeder in the pump, many pumps have been needlessly replaced because this thing has stuck open.
once everything is done and together with the engine warmed up (60+deg c) bridge the fuel pump relay with the engine stopped and check the injector tops for leakage.
Hello!
i have been very busy for the past weeks and didn't have time to do much with my car. The only think i did is replacing the oil. This time I used 5W40 instead of 10W40, because some people said that too thick oil can mess with the hydraulic lifters (or lash adjusters). The only result is that the missfire occurs now randomly. Today i started the car on the morning (around 9-10*C) and it was running perfectly, and when i got to my job and started it again after 10 minutes or so it started to missfire. I also noticed that the plug that connects to the glowplug on cylinder no. 1 is broken, but i don't think it really matters. I have done around 1500km and there is no diesel in oil, and i didn't notice any drop in oil level. This weekend i will try to run the car with breather valve disconnected, we will see if it brings any results.
Cheers!
The low temp oil viscosity has no effect on the engine running in any Australian environment, and at engine operating temps a 0W-40 is the same viscosity as a straight SAE40 engine oil, and at any temp above approximately 10°C a 15W-40 is roughly the same viscosity as a 5W-40.
I'd be looking for oil in the loom or a dodgy engine harness/loom.
^^^ this , have you checked / or replaced injector harness ?
I agree with Rick the misfiring won’t be because of the oil viscosity.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
But in a Poland winter then 5W/30 is recommended by LR for -30°C to 35°C climates.
Totally agree re the visc for eastern Europe, but even in Canberra and the Snowy's I ran a 10w-40.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
