Thread: Td5 cut out while driving, now won't start

When mine cut out while driving and wouldn't start it was a dead Crank Angle Sensor, located on the bell housing righ hand side above starter motor. Mine died due to a leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator which is above this location on the side of the head. I didn't have any key issues but did have M & S lights. Also found a fuse blown in engine bay fuse box which I believe was not allowing the Nanocom to communicate with the ECU.

Hope that helps. There are more knowledgable heads than mine on here.

Hi mate. Just some ideas if could help. 1. Open the fob key then using any metal wire with 2 sharp round tips would be able to lock/unlock car when you touch the tips to the end points where the broken button stayed before. This will help to make sure you are unlocked. 2. If the engine cranks then immobiliser already unlocked. 3. Do not trust battery Voltage but you need a proper battery tester, make sure testing your battery has more than 550CCA left inside regardless of whatever CCA it has on the label. 4. To prime pump the fuel if you were running out of diesel, then you might need to do A LOT MORE than 5 cycles. I did experience one time my wife ran the TD5 Auto out of diesel on the road, and it needs about 15 litter of diesel in with A LOT more than 10 cycles before the car started again. Keep posting here so others will help you. Good luck!

Crank angle sensor.

Remove the fuse box from under the steering wheel and very carefully check for water ingress and pin corrosion. Those immobilizer and CAN errors are not caused by a faulty crank sensor...

Originally Posted by ChookD2

When mine cut out while driving and wouldn't start it was a dead Crank Angle Sensor, located on the bell housing righ hand side above starter motor. Mine died due to a leaking Fuel Pressure Regulator which is above this location on the side of the head. I didn't have any key issues but did have M & S lights. Also found a fuse blown in engine bay fuse box which I believe was not allowing the Nanocom to communicate with the ECU.

Hope that helps. There are more knowledgable heads than mine on here.

Thanks chook. I've considered the crank sensor , but assumed because it was reading at 200+ while cranking, that it was working. I took apart the XYZ switch and found some corrosion. I also checked the transmission ecu plug for oil. I got the lights, due to monitor switch. Have run it through a few cycles and as of yet they haven't returned. In slabs it is reading engine speed between 205 and 95 even when not cranking...

Originally Posted by maxperformance

Hi mate. Just some ideas if could help. 1. Open the fob key then using any metal wire with 2 sharp round tips would be able to lock/unlock car when you touch the tips to the end points where the broken button stayed before. This will help to make sure you are unlocked. 2. If the engine cranks then immobiliser already unlocked. 3. Do not trust battery Voltage but you need a proper battery tester, make sure testing your battery has more than 550CCA left inside regardless of whatever CCA it has on the label. 4. To prime pump the fuel if you were running out of diesel, then you might need to do A LOT MORE than 5 cycles. I did experience one time my wife ran the TD5 Auto out of diesel on the road, and it needs about 15 litter of diesel in with A LOT more than 10 cycles before the car started again. Keep posting here so others will help you. Good luck!

Thanks max performance. I'll give the key a go. It's not immobilized. I ran out of diesel a few weeks ago and it took shares to start.. I tried 2 different purge idea before it worked.. could it be fuel filter? This time the diesel was below a quarter but it still wouldn't completely suprise me.. I did try start ya bastard last night to no avail.

Last night I disconnected the fuel line from the cooler. I got no fuel when ignition turned on, but did while cranking

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Crank angle sensor.

Thanks v8lan

Originally Posted by justinc

Remove the fuse box from under the steering wheel and very carefully check for water ingress and pin corrosion. Those immobilizer and CAN errors are not caused by a faulty crank sensor...

I only bought this one a month or so ago. In the ad he stated that he had had to jump start the car and he wasn't sure if it was the battery or something else... Fast forward to the next rainy day and water is dripping heavily from the roof lining.. have had a fair bit of rain lately... Are there any tricks to removing it? I have rave but you never know.

Another thing to note is I do occasionally get a turbo overboost fault... I don't think it happens unless it's put over 3500rpm.. and an open EGR....