Thread: Alternator/battery issues TD5

Gday folks,

A couple of months ago I had my battery light come on, then all my dash lights, then all dash instruments went dead. I could still drive so I got to a good spot to pull over, turned the vehicle off and 7v in my battery (bat 1). Obviously I couldn't restart so I put in a replacement battery (bat 2). The battery light stayed on but I could drive it home. Battery 2 tested at 11.5v when I got home.

I purchased a "refurb" alternator and replaced the alternator and belt. I could only get 12v at the battery with truck idling. Tested from the alt output to the bat - terminal I could only get 12v. This lasted for several days. I booked in to an auto-elec. On the day of the booking the light went out so I tested and got 14.5v at battery terminals and from alt output to - terminal. The auto-elec said there wasn't anything he could do.

The truck had been running well for about 6 weeks then the battery light came back on. I had the new battery in. It tested at 12.5v on the terminals. With the engine idling it dropped to 11.5v across the battery and from the alt output to the battery again. I tried the old battery which had been recharged and got the same results.

Does anyone have any ideas before I take it back to the auto-electrician. I can't get into him for another few days so I may as well see if it something I can find in the mean time.

TIA

Hi. Check voltage across engine head and the thick brown wire which is connected to fusible link FL1 in the fusebox, that's direct alternator output and if you get around 14V there and not on the battery check across head and battery positive and if you get good voltage check the battery earth contact, if you dont get voltage on the battery but you get on FL1 check contact there and cable continuity from fusebox to battery. If no output from the alternator check if you get 12V on the white/green wire in the small plug of the alternator