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Thread: M & S Lights Strike Again

  1. #1
    John_Hay Guest

    M & S Lights Strike Again

    Hi Folks. A plea for assistance 🤔
    Our D2 (2002 td5) has an intermittent fault. With no clear pattern, the M&S lights flash. Pulling away, especially uphill, is difficult but once traveling above 20mph the vehicle goes like there’s no problem. They’ll start flashing at any point in a journey. From a cold start-up to half an hour into a trip when everything’s warmed-up. Mostly, normality can be restored by stopping the engine and moving the gear selector from D to P to 1 and back to P, then restarting engine.
    Searching for a fix suggested the XYZ switch to be a prime suspect.
    I found a refurbished switch at a ‘reassuringly expensive price’ and fitted it. However, it seems to have made little or no improvement. This ‘new’ switch came with 120 day warranty so could easily go back if it is really faulty.
    So. Before I send it back, is there anything else you experienced chaps could suggest that would cause the problem?
    Whilst the battery is not new, it appears to be fine. Engine stopped. No load volts = 12.6 With all lights on, voltage = 12.01
    With engine idling and no load, voltage = 14.5 With all lights on, voltage = 14.4
    Would you expect this type of (ZF auto box) problem to produce a fault-code?

  2. #2
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    Have a look at the harness to the transmission as it passes around the back of the transmission.

    it is best to access after removing the console top which is pretty tedious with 14 rivets to drill out.

    However there is a bolt head right at the corner that can wear through the insulation and short the wires.
    Regards PhilipA

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_Hay View Post
    Hi Folks. A plea for assistance 🤔
    Our D2 (2002 td5) has an intermittent fault. With no clear pattern, the M&S lights flash. Pulling away, especially uphill, is difficult but once traveling above 20mph the vehicle goes like there’s no problem. They’ll start flashing at any point in a journey. From a cold start-up to half an hour into a trip when everything’s warmed-up. Mostly, normality can be restored by stopping the engine and moving the gear selector from D to P to 1 and back to P, then restarting engine.
    Searching for a fix suggested the XYZ switch to be a prime suspect.
    I found a refurbished switch at a ‘reassuringly expensive price’ and fitted it. However, it seems to have made little or no improvement. This ‘new’ switch came with 120 day warranty so could easily go back if it is really faulty.
    So. Before I send it back, is there anything else you experienced chaps could suggest that would cause the problem?
    Whilst the battery is not new, it appears to be fine. Engine stopped. No load volts = 12.6 With all lights on, voltage = 12.01
    With engine idling and no load, voltage = 14.5 With all lights on, voltage = 14.4
    Would you expect this type of (ZF auto box) problem to produce a fault-code?
    Probably better to post this in the Discovery 2 section rather than under Land Rover History.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
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    Motorcycles :-
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  4. #4
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    Welcome to the forum. With a bit of luck Sierrafery will be along soon, he's the absolute giru on all things D2 electronics.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/signaturepics/sigpic20865_1.gif

  5. #5
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    Hi. Can be many reasons so better read the fault code, if it's gear selection related and the switch was ruled out then probably the harness is hurt as PhilipA said, if no code concentrate to see exactly when that happens cos if it does it after you shifted from D to R or vice-versa the ECU gets mixed up if the vehicle was not fully stopped and the engine at steady idle
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  6. #6
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    Similar issue

    Mine also does it intermittently so also purchased a switch (finished up getting two in the end but that's another story). Such a wealth of information but as I am to put in a CDL lever soon (now also have two...) will surely find the issue at the corner of the transmission! Suppose is should be just a simple patch up and then should we locktie the harness away somehow?

  7. #7
    John_Hay Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Have a look at the harness to the transmission as it passes around the back of the transmission.

    it is best to access after removing the console top which is pretty tedious with 14 rivets to drill out.

    However there is a bolt head right at the corner that can wear through the insulation and short the wires.
    Regards PhilipA
    Thanks PhilipA.
    I removed the console, gear lever gators, switches and sound insulation to expose the rivets and the plate. But I didn’t drill-out the rivets. How does the plate come out, because it is under the floor pressing and therefore bigger than the floor aperture? This all took rather longer than anticipated and time was running out and as our (only) vehicle is needed tomorrow for an important appointment, I put it all back together.
    Additional question because I’m running out of time. (I have cancer treatment surgery in near future and want to get the disco reliable for my wife whilst I’m laid-up)
    If we continue to drive when the M&S lights flash, will this do significant harm to the transmission? It seems not to affect performance if the fault develops once we’re driving above about 20mph, although the torque converter has to work harder to get the vehicle moving from standing. Is there a consensus on this? Thanks everyone for helping so far, JH

  8. #8
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    It comes out the top with some fiddling AFAIR.
    Regards PhilipA

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