Originally Posted by
discorevy
As you mentioned that your'e not after a " weapons grade rockcrawler "and want something reliable , I'd suggest relearning how to tackle the steep stuff using the auto , lock centre diff , place it in to 1st low, press manual mode( and HDC if you wish ), let it get to 2000 rpm or above before you head downhill then take your foot of the go pedal. The torque converter will then lock down to just before stall.
The torque converter you bought will not help with EGT's but will help a bit with engine braking when unlocked.
It will also make it nicer to drive but only if remapped .
Maybe hold off with the gearing changes , 32" tyres, lockers etc as this can be done later if you need it.
I'd start with 245/75/16 or 265/70/16 , as they are a good compromise between having some clearance under the diffs and not affecting gearing too much .
I'd also be spending around half the budget on making it reliable and nicer to drive first , and unless you really know your way around these beasties that should involve getting an assessment from someone who does. ( you can always replace what is required yourself ).
Listen to this man. Not only is he a guru mechanic, but he also knows how to drive and play with D2a TD5s!!!!!
MY16 D4 TDV6 - with a little Cambo magic for towing "The Brick"
MY95 RRC LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" (turning circle comparable to QE II) with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants. Back home Nov 22 after a magic overhaul by Chivalry
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto Classic and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
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