td5 engine saver low water level alarm

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Oh, I think that part of the circuit wouldn't be a worry with the LED and buzzer, the LED would need a resistor on it anyway if running 12v in parrallel. It's just getting enough power to them which would need the transistor, only a really small amount of current would pass through the coolant, there is more than enough to switch a transistor if there is coolant in the water and then the transistor when switched on would provide the full amount of power to the buzzer and LED. You're right though, easy to mock up and the simpler the better.

---

I thought the Allisport reservoir had a float, rather than probes.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Just make it yourself then. The circuit is very straight forward if you want. This would be a great starting point. If you want a buzzer you might be able to substitute the 330ohm and LED for the buzzer.

https://content.instructables.com/OR...13860a4655443a

---

DC will cause electrolysis. Hmm so will AC. You need inert electrode. Tungsten or Platinum, or gold maybe?
Or a Raspberry Pi to monitor the resistance.. and oil temp and.... and ....[bigsmile1]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by V8Ian

I thought the Allisport reservoir had a float, rather than probes.

---

Ahhhhh sorry! I didn't realise that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Ahhhhh sorry! I didn't realise that.

---

I'm not 100%, I'll have to check, but we were obviously talking at crossed purposes. [biggrin]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by V8Ian

I'm not 100%, I'll have to check, but we were obviously talking at crossed purposes. [biggrin]

---

Confident it's a float.

It definitely has a float, or at least mine does. I presume this makes the electrics different?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by V8Ian

Lawrence, connect one wire from the reservoir to earth or negative battery terminal. Pass the other wire through the firewall and connect the LED and buzzer. Join the other side of the LED and buzzer together and connect to power, preferably ignition sourced. This is parallel. Alternatively, connect the LED and buzzer together, connecting the wire from the reservoir to one end and the other end to the power source. This is series. Of course, using either method you can add cable between components, to suit your chosen mounting points, as long as you use one or other of the aforementioned methods.
The advantage of parallel is that if one alarm fails, the other will still operate. Conversely, if in series and one component fails, the circuit is broken, rendering both components inoperative.
Before committing to either method, experiment across the battery to ensure the two components work as expected.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Metoikos13

It definitely has a float, or at least mine does. I presume this makes the electrics different?

---

The above method will work. You can use both or either one of the alarms.

Thanks Ian. I'll give it a go but I'm fairly sure I can still bugger it up.