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Thread: Oil change time.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Problem on a D2 is that by the time you’ve dragged all that out, set it up, got a container etc...

    The Stahlbus is already draining, the filter change is underway and you’re nearly ready to fill with new oil Oil change time.
    Yes it takes minutes to put the tube down the dipstick, and start pumping into a container. You do not use a container? It drains onto the floor/road?

    I could say by the time you crawl under the car, put the hose in to a container.......
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Yes it takes minutes to put the tube down the dipstick, and start pumping into a container. You do not use a container? It drains onto the floor/road?

    I could say by the time you crawl under the car, put the hose in to a container.......
    I’ll time it - I’m doing the D4 this weekend.

    It’s so quick it’s painless - Including packing it all up and storing it away clean in the sealed box in the vehicle Oil change time.

    Mines draining before the bonnet even goes up.
    Then it’s bonnet up, filter off and on, unplug drain and Slide out the old bottle full of old oil.
    Quick wipe of the drain hose and back into the box.
    Refill the engine with fresh oil.
    Bonnet down.

    No need to clear the tubes, disconnect the pump, find somewhere for it so it’s not dripping everywhere Oil change time.

    The pumps have their place for sure, the Stahlbus is far quicker though - and 99.9% drain every time.

  3. #13
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    The mind boggles thinking of what you guys must get up to with all your spare time.
    Roger


  4. #14
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    I found with the D4 it took more time getting the bash plate off,and refit it, than it did to drain the oil,and refill.

    The Stahlbus may be above the bash plate on the D4?
    And hole in the bash plate to access?

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xtreme View Post
    The mind boggles thinking of what you guys must get up to with all your spare time.
    I don’t have spare time!!! Hence anything that makes something quicker and easier gets implemented.

    It’s like using Computers - using the keyboard shortcuts saves time. Makes complex work quicker and more effective.

    I use the same on site, my site is one of the most effective at the moment - we’ve implemented small pieces of tech that reduce normal task time.


    It all adds up.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Yes it takes minutes to put the tube down the dipstick, and start pumping into a container. You do not use a container? It drains onto the floor/road?

    I could say by the time you crawl under the car, put the hose in to a container.......
    The major difference with the pump out method vs drain method will be how much old oil was extracted using the pump?
    Unless you have a good length of the hose into the sump, to coil around at the bottom, probably going to leave quite a lot still remaining .. compared to draining.
    Angle of the ground it's sitting on could be important too. if slightly leaning one way, and the random way the pump hose will drop into the sump, possibly reaching onto the high side.. could leave a lt of old oil or something.
    How long would you dare run a pump 'dry', to get as much old oil out.

    Sounds like both methods are 'easy' .. one maybe easier than another in some way, but horses for courses really.

    I don't have the stahlbus, I have the Femco Clickdrain version(will also fit the TD5 recess)
    Basically a garden hose type quick connect. They have a cheaper screw on type too, the click on type looked easier.
    Undo protective cap on sump cap, click the external piece, straight on.
    Small hose on the external clicker doodad, and oil directly into 10l drum, no need to raise the body. I do in the TDi only because the drain plug is at the rear of the sump at an angle. Td5 is directly down(close to rear), so better not to raise it.

    You guys and your TD5s .. are OK, no mess to worry about, drain is straight down.
    Have a go in a TDi Disco!
    Sump plug is angled backwards, and the first 5lt of the 6+ litres of old oil will be directed straight onto the sway bar, and then splash sideways at all angles(a 2m wide tray would be handy!).
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  7. #17
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    They probably didnt think anything with a 300 needed a swaybar...
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    They probably didnt think anything with a 300 needed a swaybar...
    Everything with a 300 needs swaybars .. gotta keep momentum up somehow, for fear of falling so far behind. Time seems to stop in a Tdi .... or at the least ... feels like an eternity.

    Although, saying that, I recently fell into a position where I have "440hp" and 50 tons to move.
    I use the term 'move' very loosely here too. While it does move, it doesn't really fee like it.
    A new level of slow.
    I jump back into the Tdi to go home at the end of the day, and on first take off, it feels like a 3.5s 1/4mile run .. oops!
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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