Is the battery fully charged?
Hi Guys
I am stumped - my D2 - pulled engine and fitted new rings & bearings, full gaskets and put it back in - starter turns it over but not starting.
I have checked the following
Intertia switch has good continuity, the fuel relay is not being switched on by the ECU (can ground the relay to switch on and we get fuel to the injector rail.)
I checked with my Nanocom and it suggests everything is good with everything except it can't communicate with the Hella cruse control ECU.
I used the Nanocom to turn off all the security crap - still no fuel or spark.
I have ordered a new crank angle sensor but I think I am wasting money as it was fine before the engine rebuild and I treated it with due care.
I also was under the impression the fuel pump would run on ignition ON for 5 seconds even if you don't crank it over. (true or false?)
So I think the engine ECU or BCU is not allowing it to start - why - I an detect no faults and the red flashing LED is also off so I assume the imobilizer is not active.
As always the Landrover ECUs are all VIN locked (what a stupid idea)
I am worried that it will sit on my lawn as an ornament like my D3 HSE when all it's ECUs decided they did not want to work together.
I would go out and fit a Haltech or similar if I thought the other ECU's would allow me to get away with that.
Other than burn it - any sensible ideas on what to do next?
This will be my last Land Rover - even with a million dollars I would never buy another one - the hardware is great but the electronics and software is crap. - Maybe Grenadier will be better ?
Regards
Denisrangie![]()
Is the battery fully charged?
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Hi, you could have disturbed the harness which goes into the fusebox, check all the connectors to be well connected in it, bridge relay R9 and see then
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
I had that issue on my old D2 V8 after an engine rebuild. Try unplugging and plugging the ecu connectors behind the driver's kick panel.
I worked with my car.
04 L322 Vogue V8 - Work truck
07 Freelander 2 TD4 SE - The wifes
74 Leyland P76 Targa Florio - Aspen Green
91 Kawasaki GPZ900R
Previous LRs = 78IIa series - 81, 93, 95 RRC - D2V8
Not sure on what a D2 runs, and it's probably different, but on a D1 V8 (Or any 14CUX setup) that will happen if the wire between the ECU and the negative of the coil falls off the coil - it's a small white with black trace wire. Car will crank but until the ECU sees a signal showing the engine is rotating from the coil, it won't start the fuel pump or the rest of the system.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Probably just a pinched or missing wire , check to see if the nanocom reads any revs when cranking
Did you remove the crank sensor during rebuild? When I rebuilt mine I assembled the spacer arse about and no spark, no fuel pump. Rearranged spacer and sensor, start first kick, bugger to get at when engine installed.
Mine is auto, I would think the spacer is used because clearance would be different between flywheel and flex plate.
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