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Thread: TD5 rough running.

  1. #21
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    I should have mentioned F2 engine bay
    Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    I should have mentioned F2 engine bay
    Yep. Sussed that.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #23
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Fuel pump

    My money is on the fuel pump. Although in my experience the engine idled ok, under load the engine had no power and was just as if starved for fuel. Car was able to tick along on the dirt track, as soon as it got on the bitumen the fuel supply was not up to it.
    Quote Originally Posted by benji View Post
    ........

    Maybe we're expecting too much out of what really is a smallish motor allready pushing 2 tonnes. Just because it's a v8 doesn't mean it's powerfull.

    One answer REV IT BABY REV IT!!!

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by slug_burner View Post
    My money is on the fuel pump. Although in my experience the engine idled ok, under load the engine had no power and was just as if starved for fuel. Car was able to tick along on the dirt track, as soon as it got on the bitumen the fuel supply was not up to it.
    In this case I don't think so. I was prepared to agree, but the only time it has a problem is when I floor it, and then it takes a few seconds. The rest of the time, including driving around here, freeway driving, going up a certain track near here, it's fine. So, under load it's fine, but full throttle it fails. I'll try the boost solenoid first. It's cheaper.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #25
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    If it is the pump.

    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  6. #26
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    I did have to 'repair' the pump..

    I had the tank out, and the pump out of the tank. Don't ask. The pump housing thing was broken.
    IMG_2098.jpgIMG_2099.jpgIMG_2104.jpg

    So I did this:

    IMG_2124.jpgIMG_2125.jpgIMG_2126.jpg

    Seems to work.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    Remove fuse F2 and try so cos then the solenoid should be open all the time as like it's bypassed
    I think that did it! Thanks again.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    I think that did it! Thanks again.
    Spoke too soon. But it's so random I'd better go over all the wiring for a potential short or something.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #29
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    Can you explain what exact happened when you "floor it" then "it fails"? Does it surge/jump like short of air or fuel, or does it stop/stall immediately, or it doesn't go more revs than 2700rpm-3000rpm, or it doesn't response in a few seconds then slowly increases the power as normal, or how it "failed"?
    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    In this case I don't think so. I was prepared to agree, but the only time it has a problem is when I floor it, and then it takes a few seconds. The rest of the time, including driving around here, freeway driving, going up a certain track near here, it's fine. So, under load it's fine, but full throttle it fails. I'll try the boost solenoid first. It's cheaper.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxperformance View Post
    Can you explain what exact happened when you "floor it" then "it fails"? Does it surge/jump like short of air or fuel, or does it stop/stall immediately, or it doesn't go more revs than 2700rpm-3000rpm, or it doesn't response in a few seconds then slowly increases the power as normal, or how it "failed"?
    First time it happened I was driving up a hill and accelerated and it lit up the MIL, the fuel filter light and it lost power and surged until I backed off. I was able to drive it to the top of the hill, and then I restarted it.
    Next time I was pulling away from the lights and wanted to see how the shifts were going at full throttle. This time it lit up both the lights, lost all power and stalled and refused to cooperate until I shut it down and restarted it. I thought, and an indie confirmed, that it might be the boost solenoid that was the culprit. I disabled that and for some time today I thought that to be correct, but then it did it again, this time NOT at full throttle but going up a hill. I'm beginning to suspect that my wiring job may not be as good as I thought. The CPS wiring was what was damaged.

    Quote Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
    The MIL can be "officialy" triggered only by two things on a Td5: the CPS or TPS
    I'll also grab the TPS off the other car. I was planning to do so anyway.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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