Thread: TD5 water pump porting

Originally Posted by MT vista

Team,
I have been thinking of changing the water pump on my 2003 TD5, for the sole reason I have no idea as to its history.
I been looking at the various post for its replacement and it seems to vary between a relatively easy task and a nightmare. But one thing I've come across was when I visited the local Repco, they quoted two pumps: one left hand port and one right hand port. A significant difference in pricing too I can tell you.
The part numbers quoted where WP8230RP and TF8370
Anybody have an idea which one is correct? And should I even be looking to buy from Repco in any case?

The part number is either PEM500040 or ERR6505, the latter being a Bearmach number. There seems to be only one type listed.

Personally, I don't think the folk at Repco would know a Discovery 2 if it ran over them.

Mario at Roverlord is pretty crook, but I reckon he could get you a pump before Repco sorted out their computer list. Bearmach in the UK could probably do it faster than Repco, mail and all. I had to explain to my local Repco bloke that the globe he was trying to sell me for a BA FALCON was not a stop/tail that I wanted. AND he wanted my rego to identify the right part. I buy Penrite oils from Repco because I get a discount. Nothing else.

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Repco are fairly useless.

ERR6505 old part number superseded below
PEM500040 I recommend a genuine, QH branded or a Proflow as its made in the U.K all three are not chinese made rubbish that wont last the distance.

I'd also recommended the cover plate as they often corroded away
ERR7047 - cover plate/outlet for water pump.

Thank you for the responses.
It looks like a purchase from one of the specialist landie suppliers

And it might be a good idea to replace the accessory block to engine block O ring.
Which isn't a standard O ring, it's a strange section shape and best to get a genuine part there.

Originally Posted by MT vista

Team,
I have been thinking of changing the water pump on my 2003 TD5, for the sole reason I have no idea as to its history.
I been looking at the various post for its replacement and it seems to vary between a relatively easy task and a nightmare. But one thing I've come across was when I visited the local Repco, they quoted two pumps: one left hand port and one right hand port. A significant difference in pricing too I can tell you.
The part numbers quoted where WP8230RP and TF8370
Anybody have an idea which one is correct? And should I even be looking to buy from Repco in any case?

Are planning on a long drive to remote area? If so, preventative maintenance can be good. If not .. leave it.
While any water pump can fail at any point .. if it's not leaking leave it.

Those two part numbers from Repco(whilst I agree with others that they are generally useless!) .. actually seem to 'jell' OK with what appears to be TD5 water pumps(but only the main pump body).
Like Dazza said, the rear cover section of the body can corrode, mainly at the outlet port, and make the seal to the hose a bit dubious.
So what could happen if you pre-emptively decide to change it and not the cover is that you will refit the hose to a corroded cover port and it will likely start to leak.

Have you flushed the coolant? Have you checked the coolant?
Many 'previous owners' don't know much, and will just throw any old stuff at their hackabout LR vehicles.
Td5's apparently require OAT coolant .. colour makes no difference.
So those not so knowing previous owners go to the local parts store and buy the cheapest coolant(usually glycol) and throw it in.

So .. now that the Disco is in more careful ownership(ie. you) you do the research, figure out that OAT coolant is what's needed, so end up doing the right thing and flush out old coolant thorougly, then replace with the proper OAT coolant.
A short while later the TD5 cooling system springs leaks all over the place. You wouldn't be the first that this has happened too. Many posts and advice re this event here on AULRO(which is why you came here in the first place! )

If this sounds like it's happened to us(ie. my brothers TD5) .. then you heard right.

If I understand correctly, glycol in a TD5 accelerates corrosion of some/many aluminium bits in the cooling system .. OAT(and HOAT) doesn't, or lessens this process. So if you have glycol in there, either you know this, or suspect it ... it's simply the change from glycol to OAT that causes the leaks ... if they happen.
You could just as easily leave the coolant or replace it with glycol again .. and it probably won't leak. But, leave it too long and it may cause more corrosion of the Al parts.

How are the coolant hoses? Are they still rubber?

I'd reckon for a bit of preventative maintenance, look to change the coolant, make sure you get OAT or HOAT type. Expect that it may leak after a short while. IIRC brothers began about 2-4 weeks of almost daily driving(short trips).
This was done months prior to a week long high country trip we had planned to do ... so wanted to be sure of this kind of stuff way beforehand.
No issues once all leaks were done, where his leaked at the fuel cooler, water pump and some small hose I can't recall ... all came good and it all stopped. He had some corrosion at the water pump outlet(but got a new cover anyhow even if it weren't).
We replaced all hoses with silicon types(with a metal T junction on the top hose) .. we found the top outlet port has some corrosion wear on it, cleaned it up greased it before finishing the hose connection.
BTW, on the trip he had starter(solenoid issues! ) once or twice, but not major ... main thing was zero cooling issues.

Water pump can be either hard or easy. When we did his, old one struggled to come out. I was just about ready to grind a mil off the shaft to get it to come out, then thought it more carefully .. doing this won't help the new one in .. so had to work out a better way. Centrifugal filter 'needed' to be loosened to allow pump body out. But with just a few more seconds of perseverance with it, we (I think he!) found the magical orientation for the pump body to squeeze out and into the outside world of the disco engine bay .. yay! Then the thought of getting the new one in without damaging it ... but we laughed loudly when it just went it without any effort!

So it turned out that the replacement pump(Bearmach) was a couple of mil shorter overall than the old one we removed. Why, no idea, but the new one came back out with zero manipulation, back in easy again .. and so on. Very confusing. But on comparing it was clearly easy to see that the new Bearmach pump was a couple (maybe 4 or even 5 mm) shorter from front face end to shaft .. so this is why some report it so hard .. and others say easy. Bolts can be a pain to get too, but many usually are!

It's always good to see pics of a impending job .. and Disco2.co.uk has already provided a how too for 'ya to peruse .. LINK HERE.