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Thread: TD5 rear main.

  1. #1
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    TD5 rear main.

    Got told on an RWC check that rear main was leaking. Not sure myself, it was dry 2K ks ago, I reckon it's the back of the cam cover or the FPR, but assume he's right. Easier to take the trans or the engine out? I don't relish the idea of trans out, as I'd have to do it, again. Apart from the AC I don't see engine out as being so hard for someone without a decent workshop to use.

    Oh, he pinged the engine mounts as well. Grr, but they would have had to be done anyway, 310,000km
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #2
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    Don't see too many leaking , you're probably on the money with the cam cover or fpr ( easy enough to check )
    did whoever replace the trans notice any oil round the rear main ( surely would've checked )?
    A/c compressor just gets moved out the way for engine out

  3. #3
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    Do tappet cover etc first. Doubt it's the RMS.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Do tappet cover etc first. Doubt it's the RMS.
    That's the plan. Both that and the FPR were off and back on in a hurry recently.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    I would say have a look inside the bell housing by removing the round inspection hole and see if there is oil coming out of the main seal..

    There is a potential leak near there where the sump meets the gearbox. If the sealant has failed oil will migrate to the area between sump and bell housing and drip out.
    I once saw a post where someone had drilled a hole in the bottom to let the oil out.
    When I first removed my sump years ago I recall quite a bit of oil came out of there.
    Regards PhilipA

  6. #6
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    The Dodgy Bros’ playbook has, inspect the RJS with a borescope. Give the area a thorough clean. Nip off and nip up the bell housing bolts. It will look like you removed the bell holding to replace the RMS. Important especially if there is no oil there. You gonna tell the road worthy guy he was wrong?
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    You gonna tell the road worthy guy he was wrong?
    Yep, if he was.... Why not?

    It's gunna be hard to show the bolts have been out recently to convince him, because they have! Trans was out a month ago, as you know.

    Now, I am going to do all the stuff he said, as he was correct, and I knew nearly everything he listed before I took it there. I missed the engine mounts. I want my steering and brakes etc to be right, as do we all. I will then do the rocker cover and FPR gaskets, clean the whole thing with the pressure washer and take it back.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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