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Thread: Undo oil cooer pipes..

  1. 9th April 2021, 04:00 PM #1
    Tins's Avatar
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    Undo oil cooer pipes..

    I need to repair/replace the trans oil cooler pipes. I am having trouble undoing the top one at the gearbox end.
    Untitled.png

    I think this pic is for the V8, but the question is the same. The nut here has little cuts, which I take to signify LH thread. I don't want to force anything, so is it LH thread? I can't see why it would be, but if it isn't it's bloody tight.
    ​JayTee

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  2. 9th April 2021, 05:17 PM #2
    ian4002000
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    I cant see any reason for it to be a left hand thread. It is difficult to access and even easier to strip the new nut when assembling. Make sure you turn the new nut many times by hand before using a spanner.
    Silicon lube on the orings at the radiator end will make it much easier to get the connectors joined.

    Ian
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  3. 9th April 2021, 05:25 PM #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian4002000 View Post
    I cant see any reason for it to be a left hand thread.
    No, neither can I, but I thought it wise to ask.

    Quote Originally Posted by ian4002000 View Post
    It is difficult to access and even easier to strip the new nut when assembling. Make sure you turn the new nut many times by hand before using a spanner.
    Indeed! Been there and done that The pipe fights the alignment of the gland nut...
    ​JayTee

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  4. 9th April 2021, 06:09 PM #4
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    No, normal RH thread John.
    That's the fella that came loose on me a few months back and dumped half the bloody fluid so know it quite well. Undo oil cooer pipes..

    IIRC I was able to squeeze a flare spanner in there.
    Just.
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  5. 9th April 2021, 07:41 PM #5
    PhilipA
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    I cut an open end spanner in half and used all my strength.

    They are supposed to be 18Ft lb or 24Nm .

    Be aware of the o ring, Mine stuck in there and I could only see it with a borescope. I used a dental pick to remove it.

    I checked it last weekend and the new one was still tight although it moved a "smidgeon" with the same spanner.

    My lower new one came loose and I tightened it with a crowsfoot and thank God no leaks since so the O ring is OK.
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  6. 9th April 2021, 11:32 PM #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I cut an open end spanner in half and used all my strength.

    They are supposed to be 18Ft lb or 24Nm .
    "all my strength" has deserted me as I age, but 18 foot pound should be achievable... I believe I have a 19mm flare spanner somewhere here, but I will need extra leverage. As I'm replacing the pipe perhaps I could cut the pipe ( shears, not a saw, so no filings ) and use a socket and my long breaker bar.

    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Be aware of the o ring, Mine stuck in there and I could only see it with a borescope. I used a dental pick to remove it.

    I checked it last weekend and the new one was still tight although it moved a "smidgeon" with the same spanner.
    Is it a std size O ring?
    ​JayTee

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  7. 10th April 2021, 05:12 AM #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post



    Is it a std size O ring?
    I just bought mine from Mario and Heather.
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  8. 10th April 2021, 07:00 AM #8
    PhilipA
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    Is it a std size O ring?
    If you order a new set of Land rover pipes which are miraculously price competitive with after market, it comes with O rings.
    Regards PhilipA
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  9. 10th April 2021, 07:53 AM #9
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    right hand thread, standard hydraulic oring, but when picking your spanner, an open end crows foot should be your first choice with a good quality flare nut/pipe spanner a very very close second.

    Do not use a cheap flare nut spanner.
    Dave

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