Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Clutch master & switch line redo

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    250
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Clutch master & switch line redo

    So.... The whole clutch master / switch layout is a dogs breakfast with no logical reasoning or engineering thought put into it?
    It just sux. (correct me if I'm wrong)

    Anyway, I'm going to relocate the switch to directly onto the the master with a male / male adaptor and some hydraulic Loctite
    I'll spin it around 180 deg so the switch is up top (to aid bleeding) - (or just get rid of the thing and fit a pedal switch)
    and replace the 334,001 Klm of superfluous hard line, with a short piece of custom made flex brake line - straight down to the slave.

    Why is it such a stupid un-bleed able layout from factory???

    And yes, I've tried a few methods to bleed the system, had an industrial vacuum hooked up, the good old pump and nipple turn, even had Kelly from the pub give it a go.

    None worked, I'm sure there's a proper procedure - but it just shouldn't be that complex

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Kilmore Vic
    Posts
    211
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey did you get your clutch to bleed?

    I had a hell of a time doing mine but noticed a very slight amount of moisture on the solid line that goes around the back of the motor (TD5 not sure if a v8 has the same layout or even what you have). The line must have had a small rub through that was letting air in. I tried to bleed the clutch for days and there was no way it was going to bleed. So I pulled out the solid line and mixed up some JB weld and made a solid sleeve of it a couple of inches each side of where the weep was, let it dry for a couple of days and refitted. Bled up straight away after that.

    B
    D2 TD5 Manual

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    250
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Designosaur View Post
    Hey did you get your clutch to bleed?

    I had a hell of a time doing mine but noticed a very slight amount of moisture on the solid line that goes around the back of the motor (TD5 not sure if a v8 has the same layout or even what you have). The line must have had a small rub through that was letting air in. I tried to bleed the clutch for days and there was no way it was going to bleed. So I pulled out the solid line and mixed up some JB weld and made a solid sleeve of it a couple of inches each side of where the weep was, let it dry for a couple of days and refitted. Bled up straight away after that.

    B
    I'll definitely look into that. I had problems with the vacuum bleed sucking air in - I assumed it was sucking it in past the seals (strong vacuum pump)
    The clutch line was flopping around behind the engine when I got the car, very likely something has worn.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    Mackay
    Posts
    170
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I had to replace my clutch master and slave because the previous owner had added, I suspect, auto transmission fluid to the brake fluid which swelled all the seals. With the new components, I used a compressed air powered brake bleeder purchased from SuperCheap. This worked fine.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!