Engine mounts
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Engine mounts
If you do change the engine mounts use genuine otherwise you may be throwing good money after bad. Also I'm not convinced that is your problem as you only have the vibration at low revs and gear changes, engine mounts usually show up particularly badly at about 2,200 rpm. Nick
I say engine mount as what you describe sounds exactly the same as my td5 there easy to check just get under the car look at the engine mounts if you can see rubber in the holes under the mounts there stuffed.
Thanks guys .... I just slid under with no ramps ,,ouch !! lolol and did the " rubber in the holes check " and you are dead right ... The rubber is near pushing through the bottom of the holes , let alone 10 mm up in side ... they are knackered !!
Buying new ones now ( original :- )
Will see if that was the thing causing the vibration as soon as I have them delivered and swap them out ...
Hunt down the part number for the crank pulley and google world wide.
U dont really need an overpriced land rover made part. If it failed once it will fail again.
Yep , I hear you ... near 800 bucks for a stock one .. I ordered this one .. half the price and reads up quite ok :- ) It will do me for a few years anyway ... lolol
POWERBOND HARMONIC BALANCER LAND ROVER DEFENDER DISCOVERY 2.5L TD5 10P 15P 16P 9317010116685 | eBay
Genuine engine mounts are a must, unless you want to replace them every year or two.
Ok for reference to anyone else reading this thread and suffering a similar issue .... , swapped out the engine mounts and popped a nice new balancer on .... and whallar !!! no more serve vibrating milk shake maker ...lolol
I even washed and polished her so she is a good looking NON Vibrating TD5 now :- )
cheers Steve
My balancer went wobbly and I noticed the rubber wasn’t torn. Investigation by taking it apart revealed a bearing inside it that can be pressed out and replaced. There was one “ring” pressed in sort of like a paint tin where I had to lever it up with a large sharp screwdriver around the edge. Note: mark where everything is (i.e around the circumference mark it/scribe positions) as it’s balanced and must go back exactly as before.
Needless to say, cheaper that a new one if you catch it before the rubber is destroyed. The bearing (ball type) was utterly shot.