Being a Fridgie,its called work,24/7.[bigsad][biggrin]
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When my son first got his D2a (just before he got his license) I was driving him to work, I noticed a lot of smoke coming from the back of the rig, stopped at the servo to check (also an iced coffee to kick the day off) I thought it was water to start with but it was fuel!! The wife came out and got him to work, I decided to drive the Disco home (18km) I was about 4km from home and ran out of fuel (had over 1/2 a tank to start with) put in another 20lt and ran out again as I pulled up to the house.
Once I had the rig in the shed I found the hose had come loose (the previous owner had just replaced it) after striping everything in the way I made up a 90 degree 14mm spanner to tighten the fitting along with a reasonable amount of hydraulic Loctite, that was 18 months ago and still going well. Even though I have replaced the head gasket since, there were no leaks from the hose (the FPR was a different story though..)
In hindsight it was somewhat risky to drive it home with that amount of fuel spraying everywhere, but it was a case of get home and deal with it, also it was insured (if the worst case happened)
The Land Rover engineer who thought it was a great design had obviously never worked on any of their creations....
cheers
Red
The easiest way to gain access to the pipe is by taking off the inlet manifold. Then it's easy peasy.
However most people (me included) undertighten the nuts/unions at the front and the back. They are supposed to be 18ft Lbs ie pretty tight as I found out after much much searching as the figures are nowhere to be found in RAVE .
I had the rear start to leak at Tuggerah at an intersection. That was pretty easy to reach and tighten. I think it had picked up before being tight as it was quite loose and diesel went everywhere. Other drivers alerted me to the big diesel puddle spreading across the intersection.
I was in Byron bay when the front started to leak again copious amounts. I bent a 14MM spanner at the caravan park workshop tightened it as best I could and went to Brisbane where I had a tyre place cut and bend a ring spanner , which didn't work. I got a new Oring at the North coast specialist and then once again contorted myself to tighten it with the bent open ender with the "cheeks" removed.
You have to remove some stuff like the stay for the alternator and an oil line.
The same applies to the transmission cooler hoses to the transmission. The bottom one is easy but in my case I had to cut a spanner in half to gain access to the top one.
The best spanner for the front would be an open ender with the shaft cut off right next to the open end then rewelded on at 90degrees right next to the open end. A crows foot is no good as too much distance to the back of the spanner. Ask me how I know.
Have Fun!
Regards PhilipA
Yes i bet its a nightmare down your way ATM.
Dunno how much truth there is in it,but a real estate agent told me today over 2000 buildings in Lismore will be Bulldozed.[bigsad]
I did kind'a similar to the brothers D2(which became my D2, which became his D2 again! [bighmmm])
So what happened:
When it was his: I removed the pipe at the head, and bolted in the old small quick connect pipe at the fuel reg block. It fits in perfectly on the head where the return lines if bolted, new O ring, and then only needed a quick connect at the hose end .. which of course I couldn't source at the time. Became one of those jobs to remember to do(which never gets done).
Fast forward 4 years, and still forgot to do the quick connect swap. 4 years prior, I used 2 hose clamps to be sure the slide on hose didn't slide off .. and it didn't for 4 years ... until I got the car .. when it duly came off on the freeway heading to work at 4AM.
Hose clamps wouldn't hold it together again now .. trying to fix a tightly hemmed in part, with old parts, at 4AM ... not a lot of fun.
Needed new hose clamps .. 2klms walk later none to be found! Hose wouldn't stay on the straight pipe using the old clamps, and ign on at it would fly off. Two cable ties come to the rescue where one went on the hose, but the other was wound around the other cable tie and strapped to stop the hose sliding vertically down. It held just enough for me to drive it to a larger servo where they did have hose clamps I could buy. clamped again in the servo with new clamps .. finally got home after calling work to call in sick! [biggrin]
So, a day or so later and the two new clamps are holding on with the additional cable tie to be sure it still doesn't slip .. and ordered many quick connect fittings that may come in handy one day on something else. The 90° elbow type looked perfect for the return line job.
Undid the cable tie, loosened the two clamps .. and do you reckon the hose would come off? Impossible to move the hose now, which a few days ago wouldn't bloody stay on for a couple of seconds!
I completely removed the clamps .. not just down the hose but totally off the hose just to be sure to be sure!
No way that hose will budge without excessive heat or the use of a sharp knife!
I was about to take to it with the knife ... when bro called saying he wanted the D2 back now .. coz he sold his u-bute ute, coz $'s were getting tight, coz COVID sucks here in Vic.(and S/H vehicle sales were through the roof!).
pic of the horrid thing made easier now:
Attachment 177687
The dimple on the pipe where the quick connect clamps too is between the two hose clamps, so theoretically the lower clamp isn't doing anything.
I couldn't recall the size of that completely stupidly engineered nut(14mm thanks!) .. but, all that's needed now to renew the o-ring, should it fail, is a deep socket and quickly disconnecting the quick connect fitting that I haven't yet fitted .. [bigrolf]
If the idiot engineers had asked for a slightly deeper nut on the pipe .. no problemo.
Taking off the intake just to remove a nut .. :soapbox:
Then of course the intake gasket will get slightly broken, and of course it'll be a Sunday ....