Thread: LOF Clutches Front EXTREMEspec Big Brake Kit 330mm

So, fitment...

LOF Clutches advise:

Fitment:Currently we recommend these Brake kits for 17″ or bigger wheels

Please bare in mind you may need 30mm wheel spacers due to the size of these big calipers!

A quick test and both the caliber and rotor fit into the back of my current wheels (Dynamic Wheel Co Dynamic Steel Round Satin Blank in 16" x 8" 30P < DYNAMIC STEEL ROUND SATIN BLACK – Dynamic Wheel Co. Pty Ltd >). So I bolted the brake caliber on and then tried - no good. The caliper mounting fouled on the barrel of the wheel.

I also had a single Dynamic Wheel Co Dynamic Steel Sunraysia Matte Black Powder Coated wheel here in 16" x 8" 30P < DYNAMIC STEEL SUNRAYSIA MATTE BLACK POWDER COATED – Dynamic Wheel Co. Pty Ltd >. It was purchased as a replacement spare wheel after having damaged one of my other wheels - as such it's about 6 years newer (Tyre Right Hobart that supplied it advised that it's actually listed for an 'AMAROK' in their system but is the part number that Dynamic Wheel Co told them suits the Discovery 2 - and it fits). I checked it out and it's got a larger ID in the wheel barrel for deeper into the wheel. As such the wheel fits over these brakes but clearance to the mounting bolts is very very close!







Whit the new brake caliper and rotor in place, mounting hardware nipped up but not torqued to spec, there is no touching, scrapping or rubbing when the wheel rotates around. But given I only had one wheel that can fit over on hand, and the tight clearance (online I've found 0.100" or 3mm to be the recommended clearance amount), I've gone back to the standard setup for now...

I've got a second matching wheel incoming for testing purposes.
I'm also looking into alternative M14 x 1.5 mounting bolts that have smaller heads (either lower profile or less OD such as a socket head may have) to provide greater clearance, and/or reviewing the threaded hole of the mounting bracket to see if the bolt can go deeper to reduce the washer thickness.
The alternative is to move to 17" wheels but I want to have my cake and eat it...

Originally Posted by twr7cx

So, fitment...

LOF Clutches advise:

A quick test and both the caliber and rotor fit into the back of my current wheels (Dynamic Wheel Co Dynamic Steel Round Satin Blank in 16" x 8" 30P < DYNAMIC STEEL ROUND SATIN BLACK – Dynamic Wheel Co. Pty Ltd >). So I bolted the brake caliber on and then tried - no good. The caliper mounting fouled on the barrel of the wheel.

I also had a single Dynamic Wheel Co Dynamic Steel Sunraysia Matte Black Powder Coated wheel here in 16" x 8" 30P < DYNAMIC STEEL SUNRAYSIA MATTE BLACK POWDER COATED – Dynamic Wheel Co. Pty Ltd >. It was purchased as a replacement spare wheel after having damaged one of my other wheels - as such it's about 6 years newer (Tyre Right Hobart that supplied it advised that it's actually listed for an 'AMAROK' in their system but is the part number that Dynamic Wheel Co told them suits the Discovery 2 - and it fits). I checked it out and it's got a larger ID in the wheel barrel for deeper into the wheel. As such the wheel fits over these brakes but clearance to the mounting bolts is very very close!








Whit the new brake caliper and rotor in place, mounting hardware nipped up but not torqued to spec, there is no touching, scrapping or rubbing when the wheel rotates around. But given I only had one wheel that can fit over on hand, and the tight clearance (online I've found 0.100" or 3mm to be the recommended clearance amount), I've gone back to the standard setup for now...

I've got a second matching wheel incoming for testing purposes.
I'm also looking into alternative M14 x 1.5 mounting bolts that have smaller heads (either lower profile or less OD such as a socket head may have) to provide greater clearance, and/or reviewing the threaded hole of the mounting bracket to see if the bolt can go deeper to reduce the washer thickness.
The alternative is to move to 17" wheels but I want to have my cake and eat it...

Looks like enough room for a custom Counter sunk cap head and receiving washer. But good luck undoing it after a year or so, let alone next day.

Well done with the brakes!!!
How do you think they would go with factory 16” or 18” alloys?

Originally Posted by Discosux

Looks like enough room for a custom Counter sunk cap head and receiving washer. But good luck undoing it after a year or so, let alone next day.

Out of interest, tell me more please...

I assume counter sunk cap head is one of these types?


10Pcs-UNC-American-Standard-Grade-10-9-Black-Countersunk-Flat-Head-Socket-Cap-Screws-Machine-Screw.jpg

and then a washer with matching conical shape to receive?

Why would this be hard/impossible to undo?

The Brembo torque spec for these bolts is 165 Nm. The supplied bolts are 8.8 grade.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

How do you think they would go with factory 16” or 18” alloys?

Not sure, but:
For the factory 18"'s your unlikely have have any clearance issue to the wheel barrel.
But for both, given the wheel offset your possibly going to have clearance issues between the inside of the wheels spokes and the caliper front. The Brembo callipers, due to have pistons on both sides, are much thicker and protrude outwards much further than the standard brake callipers. I suspect due to my wheels being ET30 (so 27mm further out than standard) and the general shape of the vertical face that Dynamic Wheel Co used, that I've gotten lucky with the clearance on the vertical plane.

The washers supplied for the mounting bolts are Nordlocks < How the Nord-Lock Washers Work (Animated Video) - YouTube >.

I had Brembo brakes (a larger six piston version) on a previous Ford Pursuit ute. They did not have Nordlock washers in the factory setup. They used a M12 sock head bolt, with {as far as I can recall and see in pictures online} no washer underneath the head. This bolt was torqued to 102 - 125 Nm.

You'd probably be alright with a receiver washer, more of a problem with direct contact between the bolt and a fixed mating face.
I've had Allen keys explode on me undoing large Counter sunk screws / bolts. It scary as hell when they snap under load

Re - the Nordlocks, Meh.. a properly torqued bolt doesn't need them. You'd gain a fair bit of clearance without them.
never seen such stuff fitted to rod bolts or any other critical components.

I'm not a braking system engineer though - I probably wouldn't second guess what's been supplied, unless it was my own personal vehicle.

I believe you are right that the bolt would need to be a custom one. It seems that M14 x 1.5 (being Metric Fine) are only available in 8.8 in standard hex bolts. Socket Cap Screws are available to but they're 12.9. All other head types (flange, countersunk, button head and/or low head) are only available in metric course thread.
I suspect that the Metric Fine thread was selected for this application due to the limited depth of the hole in the mounting brackets that these thread into. But geez this choice of thread makes it a pain for bolt options!

Originally Posted by Discosux

Re - the Nordlocks, Meh.. a properly torqued bolt doesn't need them. You'd gain a fair bit of clearance without them.
never seen such stuff fitted to rod bolts or any other critical components.

I'm not a braking system engineer though - I probably wouldn't second guess what's been supplied, unless it was my own personal vehicle.

Agreed, but the fact that Nordlocks aren't used on OEM Brembo applications makes me suspect that their inclusion was due to an overly cautious engineering approach of this kit going above and beyond...

Removing the Nordlocks would gain 3.4mm of height reduction - more than enough to get the recommended 0.100"/3mm clearance. The next potential issue is that the brackets (that go between the vehicles spindle/upright and the caliper) have a blind hole that's not threaded the entire depth - I'll need to check that there's enough extra thread for the bolts to go in with the Nordlocks removed...

Torx bolts have a lower profile head.
A quick Google says M14 is a T60, and finds male T60 bits and female sockets, but only male bolts.
Given there are male bits available there must be female/socket head bolts.

Tony