Thread: Aftermarket vs genuine fuel pressure regulator

Just to clarify, my ideal would just be to get the mechanic who diagnosed it to replace it- but I’m not sure how soon I can book the vehicle in.

The fuel pressure regulator on the TD5 can OFTEN be fixed by simply replacing the actual regulator part.

Part number 0 280 160 575.

It's substantially cheaper, but it doesn't always fix the issue if the housing is worn where the O ring seals.

So it's your call, under $100 for just the reg, or a lot more for the whole thing!

Many have done just reg and it's been fine.

I'm gonna do just that part on one of mine this week, will see how I go!

I'd only go genuine, but I must say $500 seems pretty rich!

Originally Posted by Rob Ramos

Just to clarify, my ideal would just be to get the mechanic who diagnosed it to replace it- but I’m not sure how soon I can book the vehicle in.

Worst job ever on a disco, I'd rather drop the transfer case and rebuild that.
There's not much at all in the FPR, going non genuine wouldn't bother me - it's not like LR nailed the original design with that bit.

Also how bad is the transfer case? cooked? they're pretty tough things.

It's not a fun job but it's fairly doable, if you make up some studs to keep the gasket etc all lined up that makes life much easier. Replacing just the fuel regulator in the housing is dirt cheap compared to the full LR part and if your housing is in good condition why not the hard bit is removing the housing.

Originally Posted by Rob Ramos

Just to clarify, my ideal would just be to get the mechanic who diagnosed it to replace it- but I’m not sure how soon I can book the vehicle in.

Originally Posted by Discosux

Worst job ever on a disco, I'd rather drop the transfer case and rebuild that.
There's not much at all in the FPR, going non genuine wouldn't bother me - it's not like LR nailed the original design with that bit.

Also how bad is the transfer case? cooked? they're pretty tough things.

Gee that sounds ominous. I did read that it is a bit of a faff to get at and I don’t really have a workshop, so to be honest hoping I can get it booked in and fixed by a pro in good time.

The transfer case is leaking a lot of oil, has dropped out of low range on me a couple of times, and makes a clunk when you go into reverse. The mechanic said it’s obviously had a real flogging in the past and the joint with the gearbox is covered in heaps of silicon. Said it will need a rebuild- how major remains to be seen.

Originally Posted by Rob Ramos

Just to clarify, my ideal would just be to get the mechanic who diagnosed it to replace it- but I’m not sure how soon I can book the vehicle in.

Originally Posted by shack

The fuel pressure regulator on the TD5 can OFTEN be fixed by simply replacing the actual regulator part.

Part number 0 280 160 575.

It's substantially cheaper, but it doesn't always fix the issue if the housing is worn where the O ring seals.

So it's your call, under $100 for just the reg, or a lot more for the whole thing!

Many have done just reg and it's been fine.

I'm gonna do just that part on one of mine this week, will see how I go!

I'd only go genuine, but I must say $500 seems pretty rich!

Cheers, Yeah about 90 for just the reg vs $460 for the full thing would be preferable- just not sure I would know the difference between a leak from the housing or from the gaskets until I get it out. Food for thought.

Originally Posted by admiralranga

It's not a fun job but it's fairly doable, if you make up some studs to keep the gasket etc all lined up that makes life much easier. Replacing just the fuel regulator in the housing is dirt cheap compared to the full LR part and if your housing is in good condition why not the hard bit is removing the housing.

Cheers,
If I can’t get it in pretty soon, it’s probably worth taking the punt on just doing the gaskets. There is are some pretty good tips on how to get at it in a thread on here. As it is, I’m using a bit more diesel but it’s not stopping me getting around but I should really just suck it up and have a go.

Originally Posted by Rob Ramos

Cheers,
If I can’t get it in pretty soon, it’s probably worth taking the punt on just doing the gaskets. There is are some pretty good tips on how to get at it in a thread on here. As it is, I’m using a bit more diesel but it’s not stopping me getting around but I should really just suck it up and have a go.

Yeah, we followed the info posted a few times here too .. not too hard once you see what others have recommended. The painful part is simply access the limited access given. The quick connect fittings can also be quite stiff to unclip.
If you do go with the aftermarket full assembly, seriously consider the removal of the intake manifold option ... will make the job so much easier for both the FPR assembly AND the fuel return connection at the front of the head if you have a EU3 TD5.
Pre EU3 engines(more accurately the head) doesn't have the fuel external fuel return hose type FPR.
I have no idea what year models this equates too, but if you can see the fuel line that has 1/3rd pipe, 1/3 hose, and 1/3 pipe with a 90° bent section up front going into the head via a nut fitting .. you have an EU3.

So if you choose the gasket only option, then be sure you get the correct gasket for your engine/head type. The two gaskets are different even tho they will both fit. They wont work if mixed up tho ..