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Ah! sorry about that.Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
I used them recently to 'hose up' my shed with air fittings for my compressor. Set up some lines for the tyre inflator and some points for Nitto connectors using push fittings and lines to get the air to the two halves of the shed. I used 10mm line and fitting, and only saw that he had a wall of quick connectors there. Didn't know exactly what stuff they had, only that they had a bunch of stuff there.
No problem at all, good to have a go to shop for air fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Still weighing up the option for using an arb compressor and tank for the SLS and this will require other fittings to the modified air controller for tyre inflation (took out the 240V input and now is 12V). Have ordered a new cylinder and piston for the standard one which should be here next week.
Thanks for the confirmation.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
If the bag goes down and the rear is on its bump stops, there is no access to anything on the SLS.
The ease of 'pumping' with the Tee piece for mine makes a lot more sense, having broken a sensor on the sandy Vic SA border track and then having to get the high lift to get access was a PIA - much simpler to pump and reset via Nanocom.
Yes, if you have nanocom the T piece version is more confortable, however for those who dont have nanocom(or even for those who have), no need to struggle with high lift jack, that's the easy way: Exhaust Jack | Road Tech MarineQuote:
Originally Posted by RRT
These have been off my radar, but does make a lot of sense. Just watched this Highlift jack vs Bottle jack vs Exhaust jack - YouTube and hmmm, certainly worthwhile when we are going up to the Desert GF weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
I got one(exhaust bag) .. it's close to brilliant in many situations.
For off road jacking, I'd prefer it over most other options. .. never needed it tho.
Most of my use with it has been to either do something under the car, or change tyre once when in the high country.
The ease with which you can lift the entire side of the car(D1 in my case) is what I like about it .. then lower onto stands and job done.
Just don't do stupid things like I do, and forget to lock CDL when you lift one side up tho and on a slight incline! [biggrin]
Handbrake is useless without chocks or CLD engaged ... and you could very easily run your vehicle into your house due to the slight incline of your front driveway!
(not that I'd know anything about such a silly situation! [biggrin])
Don't expect to use the actual exhaust tho .. no way is there enough pressure to even start inflation, and the flexi joints(in TDi and TD5) ... allow too much bypass through them.
If you do try one, make sure it has a compressor attachment of some kind, mine has a shrader valve which is good enough.
Re the incline and that is where I saw a lot of use, especially a vehicle bellied on ruts, 'thought bubble' of lifting on the high side of the incline and rolling it down the hill off the bag so to speak.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
The other thought I immediately had was only to use the compressor but it would need a rubber bung to put on the end of the hose to insert an air hose fitting into and easily cap it off i.e.
Attachment 180690
On the D2 the Darkside manifold and turbo came with a downpipe (enlarged bore through the flexi joint), so it would be a maybe or could but still would think I would get the bung as a first option.
Attachment 180691
Finally got all the parts for the motor and Schrader lines. New piston, ring and bore going in, surprisingly the cover is rivetted on but it looks like a nice simple job.
Definitely going down along the breather tube and back into the rear quarter panel for the rescue lines, just not sure where I am going to cut, in the box or out.
Had a thought re putting solenoid actuators and a switc there for the D2a to allow it lower (got the PLIP already for the D2). That is put a two way connector with one to the valves and one to the actuators, when you want to lower the rear (ignition off), just flick the switch - there is power there for the rear ciggy lighter (don't know if this works with ignition off) - it would raise again as soon as you turn the ignition back on of course.
The actuators are only about $20 each, $5 for a switch and there you go, much cheaper than buying a 433mHz plip (19/20th's) and cheaper than what I did with the D2 and changing to the old receiver and buying a plip for it from the states for it, in fact 9/10th's cheaper!
Got the replacement desiccant for the intake from Bunnings, they sell these packs of moisture absorbers and the silicon balls are a good size, $9 and there enough there to do at least 4 air compressors.
{productName} - Bunnings Australia
Hi, i have an even cheaper solution for that, it was tested and works but implies a bit of wiring mod, i posted it on other forum:Quote:
Originally Posted by RRT
I thought to post this mod here too > parts needed:
- one 3PDT switch, something like this https://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/1m31t1b5m1qe/switch-3pdt-5a-120vac/dp/1550187 , important is to find the correct switch which can do what's in the diagram
- 3 or 4 blocking diodes like these: 5 x BLOCKING or BYPASS CATASTROPHY DIODES SOLAR BP PV UP TO 40W PER PANEL 3 AMP | eBay
So, i tried to make it as clear as possible by editing the connector view. Concentrate to identify exactly the connector and wires, corroborate the pin disposals with wire colours, you'll have to cut the wires insert the blocking diodes then connect the switch as in the scheme. The gist is that you have to switch on a live to those valves and the diodes are there to protect the ECU from backfeed. Take the live from C0504 - 1 NK wire, that's permannent so you can deflate the bags with ignition off, switch on then when the rear is as low as you want or on the bump stops switch off ... then when the switch is off and you start the engine the SLS will kick in and relevel the vehicle. Quite the same action with what the fob can do except the inflation also for the fob to work the ignition must be on II...
WARNING: this mod will work only with IGNITION OFF !http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/image...on_exclaim.gif
https://i.postimg.cc/7hqp22z9/SLS-deflate-diagram.jpg
and the two way version which can inflate too:
https://i.postimg.cc/85rL39M3/SLS-MANUAL-CONTROL.jpg
IF ONLY!!! this would have been easier than changing over the system on the D2...Quote:
Originally Posted by sierrafery
So this morning prepared to get the barrel and piston changed and lo and behold when I took the cover off the piston, water poured out it, dark brown dirty water. Turns out the motor seized, it did eventually turn when taking the piston out with a rattle gun but certainly it required a whole lot of torque and rattling. How that much water got into the base of the piston is beyond me, but it also got into the motor proper and rusted enough to stop the motor turning. Checked the loosened motor on 12V, it turned but not overly quickly or steadily. Got a couple of alright bushings to keep in the tool box now.
The barrel change over is remarkably simple with two long allen key bolts and the four rivets drilled out and replaced. The bolt for the piston onto the motor is reverse thread.
So instead have used a spare from the shed with changing the solenoid block over which had been threaded out on it. Put it all back in and raised to the top without a problem.
The solenoid block I am going to rethread to the 1/4" bsp screw push fittings for a future change over, just didn't have one available to do it and will be putting the Schrader lines connectors in then (next week).
