ABS sensor replacement - Amigos persist

**2 rocks** · 13th November 2022, 12:46 PM

Hi ladies and gents
Earlier this year we picked up a Td5 and I'm finally getting around to a few jobs on it. It was bought with a trio of cheeky Mexicans on the dash and a Testbook scan revealed the error as F/R ABS sensor, seems pretty straightforward, but this is where the fun begins.

The car was previously modded with a long-lead sensor replacement for the F/R, some time ago I checked the connections at the SLABS ECU and it looked to have been done 'properly' with the correct pin fitted. Now, not wanting to mess with the SLABS, I ordered a standard F/R sensor and using a Deutsch plug, spliced this into the long-lead. I did this after reading of someone who had done a similar thing with success.

Job done, I start car, go for a spin and the error is still there, so I'm wondering:

A) Should the error clear by itself once it receives a 'good' signal from the new sensor, or does it need to be cleared first (logically, I thought it would clear, but remain in history till cleared from memory).
B ) Is my connection no good? I can't see how a Deutsch would be functionally any different from the factory connectors.
C) Murphy's Law has sent me a dud sensor.
D) How likely is a problem at the SLABS ECU - either the ECU or the connector there?

*I should add it's a 2000 car, I haven't had one this early before, so don't know if there were any changes to the SLABS as production went on.

Any advice or experience appreciated...
Cheers
Mike

**Bohica** · 13th November 2022, 04:24 PM

Clear the fault with a Nanocom or similar.

**onebob** · 14th November 2022, 07:15 AM

Have you checked the condition of the wheel hub? Also in my experience if the hub and ABS sensor are not “matched” and you have a genuine hub / non genuine sensor (or the other-way around)… it is possible that the air gap between the reluctor ring and the sensor may not be correct even though it is correctly installed. There is a code for that condition. Also check that you have the sensor O ring installed and that there is just one O ring installed and that one from on old sensor hasn’t been left in - it’s been done before

ask me?

**2 rocks** · 15th November 2022, 09:10 PM

Originally Posted by onebob

Have you checked the condition of the wheel hub? Also in my experience if the hub and ABS sensor are not “matched” and you have a genuine hub / non genuine sensor (or the other-way around)… it is possible that the air gap between the reluctor ring and the sensor may not be correct even though it is correctly installed. There is a code for that condition. Also check that you have the sensor O ring installed and that there is just one O ring installed and that one from on old sensor hasn’t been left in - it’s been done before

ask me?

Thanks mate, ahhh, well I know the sensor is non-gen, but no idea about the hub

. I can see me cycling through various sensors if I clear the code and it returns. Arghh…
Cheers!

**Tins** · 15th November 2022, 09:27 PM

Have you checked the other sensors? It's not unheard of for them to throw misleading codes. Worth a look.

I do know that my car refused to switch off the SRS light until the codes wee cleared, maybe the ABS system is the same.

**onebob** · 15th November 2022, 09:48 PM

Originally Posted by 2 rocks

Thanks mate, ahhh, well I know the sensor is non-gen, but no idea about the hub

. I can see me cycling through various sensors if I clear the code and it returns. Arghh…
Cheers!

Do you have access to a Testbook or Hawkeye diagnostic tool or the Nanocom equivalent. Knowing the actual error code for that Front Right ABS sensor would help.

In the meantime, jack up the F/R wheel and see if there is any vertical or horizontal play in the wheel hub - there should be none - no ‘clunks’

**PhilipA** · 16th November 2022, 07:37 AM

In the meantime, jack up the F/R wheel and see if there is any vertical or horizontal play in the wheel hub - there should be none - no ‘clunks’

That would be the first thing I would do. My 2 three amigos were both front wheel bearings. There doesn't even have to be discernable play .

Regards PhilipA

**onebob** · 16th November 2022, 10:49 AM

Originally Posted by PhilipA

That would be the first thing I would do. My 2 three amigos were both front wheel bearings. There doesn't even have to be discernable play .

Regards PhilipA

X2 - the abs sensor trouble code for my last front hub was “air gap too large” which suggests a sloppy hub bearing BUT there was no discernible play.

**2 rocks** · 17th November 2022, 05:17 PM

Sigh... maybe I'll just buy two front hubs and fit them. At least if they come with the sensors pre-fitted, in theory, they should be good to go.
I know, who am I kidding lol

**p38arover** · 17th November 2022, 06:29 PM

The mention above of genuine vs aftermarket brings to mind that when you buy a genuine hub, the ABS sensor is included.

I was talking to Brad at KLR about this subject earlier this week and he mentioned that there have been reports that it’s not the sensor or hub but the wiring from the sensor to the ECU.

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