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Thread: Disco 2 - actually TD5 - recommended fluids - anti-freeze and Diffs

  1. #1
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    Disco 2 - actually TD5 - recommended fluids - anti-freeze and Diffs

    Hi there fellow forum members - after advice from the gurus


    I've always heard that red OAT should be used in the TD5 - However on Penrites "What to use site" it recommends using their "Blue coolant"
    Find the right oil for your vehicle | Penrite Product Selector | Penrite Oil
    is this OK to use or should I use "Red OAT"


    however it also says to use Transgear 75W-90 in the transfer case AND diffs (for Disco TD5)


    but recommends using same coolant and transfer as above, but Gear oil 80W-90 for Defender TD5 Diffs - aint they the same bloody diffs???




    Comments / advice?
    TIA


    I have both TD5 Defender and Disco, which is how I noticed the differences

  2. #2
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    Someone mentioned a while ago that the red oat from penrite has a high silicone content, and not suitable for the td5. I haven't researched myself though. The colour is irrelevant, penrite recommend blue, use blue.
    With the diff oils, the w is the cold rating. It won't really bother us in Australia. Ep90 is the spec in the manual for -10 to 50+ ambient temps
    It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power

  3. #3
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    I use Cummins PG Platinum in mine vehicles.

    As they state in their promotion "any engine"

    I have been using it now for about 9 years without any problems.

    https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/so...Q-Brochure.pdf
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MBE_NZ View Post
    Hi there fellow forum members - after advice from the gurus


    however it also says to use Transgear 75W-90 in the transfer case AND diffs (for Disco TD5)



    Comments / advice?
    TIA


    I have both TD5 Defender and Disco, which is how I noticed the differences


    One note for people with the Ashcroft ATB diffs is that they recommend

    "The Ashcroft Torque Biasing centre works best with a good quality EP80/90 Mineral based oil, we do not recommend synthetic oils, friction additives / modifiers and not required."
    2004 Discovery 2a TD5 Auto Aspen Green AKA Robin
    2000 Discovery 2 TD5 Auto Alverston Red AKA Edward
    1997 Discovery 1 TDi Manual White - Gone but not forgotten
    1994 Discovery 1 V8 Auto - Gone once it consumed half the worlds resource of oil

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MBE_NZ View Post
    Hi there fellow forum members - after advice from the gurus


    I've always heard that red OAT should be used in the TD5 - However on Penrites "What to use site" it recommends using their "Blue coolant"
    Find the right oil for your vehicle | Penrite Product Selector | Penrite Oil
    is this OK to use or should I use "Red OAT"


    however it also says to use Transgear 75W-90 in the transfer case AND diffs (for Disco TD5)


    but recommends using same coolant and transfer as above, but Gear oil 80W-90 for Defender TD5 Diffs - aint they the same bloody diffs???




    Comments / advice?
    TIA


    I have both TD5 Defender and Disco, which is how I noticed the differences
    Defender diff they are referring to the Salisbury style - you have a rover diff... Stick with the 75w-90

    As Justin mentioned, colour means nothing in coolant - its the TYPE of OAT that matters.
    In Penrites range Red/Pink is SiOAT and contains silicates (which in this engine you dont want) so stick with the Blue stuff

    I run Penrite in all my fleet, and theyre all Blue coolant (D4, D90, D2, RRS)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by MBE_NZ View Post
    Hi there fellow forum members - after advice from the gurus


    I've always heard that red OAT should be used in the TD5 - However on Penrites "What to use site" it recommends using their "Blue coolant"
    Find the right oil for your vehicle | Penrite Product Selector | Penrite Oil
    is this OK to use or should I use "Red OAT"


    however it also says to use Transgear 75W-90 in the transfer case AND diffs (for Disco TD5)


    but recommends using same coolant and transfer as above, but Gear oil 80W-90 for Defender TD5 Diffs - aint they the same bloody diffs???




    Comments / advice?
    TIA


    I have both TD5 Defender and Disco, which is how I noticed the differences
    IMG_20230222_140330[1].jpg

    I use everything in the Penrite recommendations (1999 D2 Td5 Auto) bar the coolant additive.

    All the oil manufacturers websites cover their backsides by simply recommending the product they have which is the equivalent of the vehicle manufacturers requirements.

    Penrite has the one oil with no substitutes but their disclaimer is nothing else in their range is the same as the manufacturer specs. You could use another oil in their range but up to you to determine it's suitability for your application.

    By following the Penrite/Castrol/Mobil and other oil company guides you don't need to question things like why is defender different to disco diff recomendation etc because it's their job to know one is a salisbury diff and other is banjo diff.

    For the coolant additive however I use www.rmi25.com as I don't care about anti-boil (don't run the vehicle at high borderline temps for emission consideration) or anti-freeze for ice country (my testicles just ain't going there) and just want an anti corrosive additive.

    Penrite is well priced and on shelves everywhere.

  7. #7
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    Defenders have never had a salisbury in the front. In rave, they only list final drive/ axle oil. So it's the same grade oil for both salisbury and banjo
    It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power

  8. #8
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    Disco 2 - actually TD5 - recommended fluids - anti-freeze and Diffs

    Quote Originally Posted by johnp38 View Post
    IMG_20230222_140330[1].jpg

    I use everything in the Penrite recommendations (1999 D2 Td5 Auto) bar the coolant additive.

    All the oil manufacturers websites cover their backsides by simply recommending the product they have which is the equivalent of the vehicle manufacturers requirements.

    Penrite has the one oil with no substitutes but their disclaimer is nothing else in their range is the same as the manufacturer specs. You could use another oil in their range but up to you to determine it's suitability for your application.

    By following the Penrite/Castrol/Mobil and other oil company guides you don't need to question things like why is defender different to disco diff recomendation etc because it's their job to know one is a salisbury diff and other is banjo diff.

    For the coolant additive however I use www.rmi25.com as I don't care about anti-boil (don't run the vehicle at high borderline temps for emission consideration) or anti-freeze for ice country (my testicles just ain't going there) and just want an anti corrosive additive.

    Penrite is well priced and on shelves everywhere.
    Why are you using that rubbish?
    Xanthene is an inhibitor to corrosion in Mild steel (and in a specific acid solution no less).
    Given your cooling system is alloy, cast and plastic, it’s doing nothing! Absolutely zilch.

    Penrite (and almost all other) coolants contain proper inhibitors.

    Higher temps in diesels - aren’t for emissions - it’s for combustion. Warm engines burn better and a TD5 working hard will easily exceed 115° without risk.

    In context of use, large mining equipment runs coolant - it’s expensive compared to water and inhibitor. Do you not think in heavy gear that doesn’t get cold that they wouldn’t switch if they could?

    Random additives from 3rd parties are questionable at best, at worst can do more harm than good.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Why are you using that rubbish?
    Xanthene is an inhibitor to corrosion in Mild steel (and in a specific acid solution no less).
    Given your cooling system is alloy, cast and plastic, it’s doing nothing! Absolutely zilch.

    Penrite (and almost all other) coolants contain proper inhibitors.

    Higher temps in diesels - aren’t for emissions - it’s for combustion. Warm engines burn better and a TD5 working hard will easily exceed 115° without risk.

    In context of use, large mining equipment runs coolant - it’s expensive compared to water and inhibitor. Do you not think in heavy gear that doesn’t get cold that they wouldn’t switch if they could?

    Random additives from 3rd parties are questionable at best, at worst can do more harm than good.
    I value everyone's opinion and experience that's how I constantly learn (sometimes relearn what I forgot) .

    But I am not a laboratory so can only go by the information on their (www.rmi25.com) website and my personal experience of using it the last few months.

    Yes higher temps in engines (diesel and petrol) improve combustion efficiency (and emissions) hence ceramics in some manufacturers research engines, but I like mine to run cooler, that's me, my car.

    I believe (without going back to their website to check) they sell the stuff for mining use too.

    A bottle of rmi-25 for me does 20 litres and costs same as buying a litre of other brands green/ red concentrate so gave it a go.

    As I do my own spannering I am quite happy to try the suck it and see approach and doing 'questionable' things like ditching the centrifuge , the fuel cooler, re arranging the cooling system plumbing etc. as any screw ups are simply undone at my convenience while others can learn from my wins/losses at no risk to themselves.

    And honestly as a poor **** I will only spend a buck when I have exhausted the cheaper option too, so once I have stopped **** farting around with the attention seeking motor and expect it will stay sealed for a while that would be the only time I will put in the OAT coolant.

  10. #10
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    I don't know why someone would call RMI25 rubbish.

    I've used it to flush out my tdi, and it worked brilliantly.
    Maybe a little too good.

    I manually flushed it with hose when I first got it(ie. straight water) and it ran clean.
    No worries I thought.
    Put in coolant and it turned a bit brown.
    So had to do it again, and not wanting to waste money, ran straight water for a short time(maybe a month or so).
    All clean.
    Not really tho.
    I then got a bottle of this RMI stuff and added it and again straight water turned more brown again.
    Not only did it turn brown again, but it also had this oily residue in it too, which contaminated the semi clear(not solid black type) expansion tank.

    Was very hard to clean the translucent expansion tank to be able to see the level of the coolant.

    Rinse and repeat again .. I must have cleaned the cooling system for about 6 or more months, until I was satisfied that it was clean of any rusty scaley crap.

    I reckon without the RMI stuff, it would still have had some pocket of crud remaining.
    I got tired of the browny stain in the expansion tank and ordered a new one simply to view the coolant level easily.

    In my experience it has good cleaning properties.

    Not long after that, ran it in bros TD5 to clean coolant(was clean anyhow) and then added it to dads HDi pug too.
    Pug still has it in, but TD5 was just to clean it .. then add coolant.

    So, if this is rubbish, at least it's good rubbish.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

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