Thread: Spare key

These work I have two which are fine, unless they've changed in the last couple of years.

Thing is, the Valeo keys for the D2 are the same as for MG, Rover cars, and quite a few others, so can be sourced from the US and other places. Ignore the barcode, the code is on a sticker on the PCB. Needs to be 433MHz.

The actual key blank itself is the same as D1, and even my OKA which has a lock from some Leyland or other.

I bought one of those. Original and only key that came with car is very worn. New key seems to be doing the job fine. The eBay ad showed a Valeo blank, in the picture, but generic blank turned up. Not worth the hassle to kick up a fuss.

Originally Posted by Bosco15

I bought one of those. Original and only key that came with car is very worn. New key seems to be doing the job fine. The eBay ad showed a Valeo blank, in the picture, but generic blank turned up. Not worth the hassle to kick up a fuss.

do you have to push a little hard on the buttons....last one i got the buttons were terrible so binned it

Originally Posted by thai_tiger

do you have to push a little hard on the buttons....last one i got the buttons were terrible so binned it

Dunno about his, but mine are fine, and they appear to be genuine Valeo, if that means anything these days.

BTW, I don't care what the buttons say*, but I had a look and they both say* Land Rover, so that's ok then.....

* what is written on them, in case Ron is looking

Originally Posted by Tins

These work I have two which are fine, unless they've changed in the last couple of years.

Thing is, the Valeo keys for the D2 are the same as for MG, Rover cars, and quite a few others, so can be sourced from the US and other places. Ignore the barcode, the code is on a sticker on the PCB. Needs to be 433MHz.

The actual key blank itself is the same as D1, and even my OKA which has a lock from some Leyland or other.

just received as above but cannot get nanocom to sync.... tried the numbers from the bar code it came with but no luck. opened it up but no code on the pcb. can you please advise me what part of the bar code you used..

Tia

Originally Posted by thai_tiger

just received as above but cannot get nanocom to sync.... tried the numbers from the bar code it came with but no luck. opened it up but no code on the pcb. can you please advise me what part of the bar code you used..

Tia

I have a strong feeling that you'll not be able to synk that fob then, happened to me too with such fob which had only the barcode, bought it from China, i tried the short version with nanocom and the long code with hawkeye and neither worked. IMO as long as it doesnt have a matching code on the PCB too it's a scam, it can be eventually synk'd using a keygen type tool which has a different way to synk keys and very expensive but i can't confirm that, i hope you are luckier than me, the internal code should be the 6 characters staring from the second one, that's how a genuine fob has the barcode and internal code:

Thai-Tiger. The numbers are in the bar code tag. I went through the same issue until seller sent me a pic.
Top row of Bar code started with a N and then six digits. (The six digits repeat, minus one. )It's these six digits that are the code you need to enter.
Something like this
*N3FCD223FCD21FFH*

Where 3FCD22 are the six digits you need.

Follow Nanocom Key sync method and you should be good.

As already stated, the numbers are in the barcode AND on the PCB. It is important to follow ALL the steps or it won't work ( Nanocom is like that...).