Thread: Donuts.

A genuine stock one would be fine Ian, oh, and just remember to replace the centring bush thingy too.

I am running a BMW M3 version which is a higher torque capacity (thicker) Rotoflex, which is also a German made SGF part.
IIRC it was branded as Febi-Bilstein on the box but was a genuine SGF-GKN part out of the box.
Can't recall offhand what series of M3 it was atm and not sure if I could put my hand on the invoice as it might've been one of the bits of paperwork gone ta ta in last years deluge.

From one of my old posts, the Febi-Bilstein part # 26148
This is the thicker BMW version and was cheaper/same price as buying a Land Rover part

The stock bolts are juuuust long enough. I installed new cone nuts and they just grip. I had bought Brighton-Best SHCS's for it but I wasn't happy with the grip (unthreaded) length of the bolts.

Ian, don't forget that it has an arrow, there is a correct way to fit. Arrow points forward.

Originally Posted by rick130

From one of my old posts, the Febi-Bilstein part # 26148
This is the thicker BMW version and was cheaper/same price as buying a Land Rover part

Ian, don't forget that it has an arrow, there is a correct way to fit. Arrow points forward.

Hi Rick

The arrows actually point in both directions to denote which way the bolts go through.

This is the correct way to install, with the fat part of the rotoflex being driven by the shaft in a clockwise direction in this pic.

Fitting it the other way will tear it very quickly.

cheers

Ian.
Get rid of it and fit a flange and tail shaft out of a RR Classic.

I have done this with my D1 and D2

Keep the donut.

My D2 ran a 4” lift and 33.3” rubber for 200,000km on the factory donut without issue. I have the RR flange etc all here for over 20 years and chose not to fit it.

The additional flex helps prevent NVH and driveline shock.

Factory diff centres and axles all lasted that time period, only my son managed to finally kill the rear diff (donut still in good condition, blew the cross pin).

When I finally finish the project a new donut will go in.

I agree, I've gone from Donut, to uni and then back to donut. I returned back to the donut for all of the reasons Tombie stated.

In my opinion now, unless you're breaking donuts regularly which will be from shocking them, then stay with the donut.

This is worth a read regarding stronger donuts:
A stronger Rotoflex possibility.

Originally Posted by discorevy

Hi Rick

The arrows actually point in both directions to denote which way the bolts go through.

This is the correct way to install, with the fat part of the rotoflex being driven by the shaft in a clockwise direction in this pic.

Fitting it the other way will tear it very quickly.

cheers

Of course!

If you do a fair bit of offroading and have ACE as I am sure you do Ian, I would suggest that you get a spare "anti roll bar link" if you keep the donut.

I had one of these fail on me out in the middle of nowhere. The ACE hydraulic ram then drops down and sits very close to the rear uni.

I finished the trip with no adverse effects. However, I know someone who had the same link failure as me and the donut took out his hoses on the ram.

I now carry 2 of these links with me.