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Thread: Fitting Hubs

  1. #1
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    Fitting Hubs

    Putting new rear axles in the D2.

    I was going to grease the splines to stop them seizing, but decided to check RAVE to see what is suggested.

    It says to put a 3mm bead of 640 Locktite around the start of the spline which will then push the Locktite along the spline when fitting hub.

    Anyone know the reason for this? I can only see 2 reasons. 1/ to prevent oil leaking down the spline. 2/ To prevent spline wear from a minute bit of back lash on the spline,
    due to it being a push fit, not a press fit.

    Anyone not used Locktite doing this, or used something else?
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  2. #2
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    There is better stuff than Loctite to prevent oil leaking. With 490Nm of torque on the drive shaft nut I can't see any slippage. Still I bought the Loctite to do my rear hub.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    There is better stuff than Loctite to prevent oil leaking. With 490Nm of torque on the drive shaft nut I can't see any slippage. Still I bought the Loctite to do my rear hub.
    So you reckon that RAVE's reason is purely for stopping oil leaking down spline?
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    So you reckon that RAVE's reason is purely for stopping oil leaking down spline?
    No it's not, allegedly it's to stop drive-line clicking.

    It will also stop the splines fretting.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    No it's not, allegedly it's to stop drive-line clicking.

    It will also stop the splines fretting.
    It'll be this ^ to stop fretting corrosion.
    The same reason you either grease the splines every 10-20,000km on the Tdi through Tdci Deefers or run oil lubed hubs.

  6. #6
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    So what do you suggest I use on my D2?

    I shopped around this morning and the only Locktite 640 I could get was a 250 Ml bottle for a bit over $400.

    I have a 50 mm bottle coming from OS but this will not arrive until mid June.

    Would it be ok to just use grease and then when I get the Locktite I remove clean and apply?
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    So what do you suggest I use on my D2?

    I shopped around this morning and the only Locktite 640 I could get was a 250 Ml bottle for a bit over $400.

    I have a 50 mm bottle coming from OS but this will not arrive until mid June.

    Would it be ok to just use grease and then when I get the Locktite I remove clean and apply?
    I think you actually need 648.

    It's available in Victoria, $22 for 50ml.

    Should have it in a week

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    So you reckon that RAVE's reason is purely for stopping oil leaking down spline?
    Looking at the shape of the drive shaft where it meets the hub, nice flat surfaces with all that torque holding it together, it will be oil proof.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    I think you actually need 648.

    It's available in Victoria, $22 for 50ml.

    Should have it in a week

    RAVE says 640. Had a look at 648 specs. It is very similar to 640 with one problem. It cures in 3 minutes, where as 640 has hours.

    Rave says that the hub nut has to be tensioned before it cures.

    Locktite.jpg
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  10. #10
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    I followed this advice and did not use any Loctite. Just a slight slight smear of anti sieze or grease.

    Hub nut - why is it so tight?

    Im pretty sure JC follows this practice as well. Will update if I can find the post.

    I have replaced both rear hubs, tightened the hub it to spec and staked it. No problems in thousand of km.

    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    RAVE says 640. Had a look at 648 specs. It is very similar to 640 with one problem. It cures in 3 minutes, where as 640 has hours.
    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post

    Rave says that the hub nut has to be tensioned before it cures.

    Locktite.jpg
    Cheers

    Simon
    2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.

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